AirDeck

Hey! everyone

I wanted to build a cyberdeck, but instead of starting with a new enclosure and buying every component specifically for the project, I decided to build it around existing hardware.

At the heart of the build is Raspberry Pi 4 paired with a 5 inch touchscreen, as well as adding a flat speaker connected by MAX98357A I2S amplifier giving the cyberdeck its own built-in audio system.

I am also reusing hardware from a DFRobot NES that I bought a long time ago. After taking it apart, I salvaged its usb and ethernet extension hardware and found a new purpose for those parts.

The build includes 3D printed custom parts, electronics, assembly, and wiring to ensure that everything works together inside an enclosure that was never intended to be a computer.

This instructables walkthrough documents the entire process of converting these old and unseen parts into a functional Raspberry Pi cyberdeck.

These were the materials used in this project.

1. Raspberry Pi 4
2. 5-inch touchscreen
3. AirFiber enclosure
4. DFRobot NES USB extension
5. DFRobot NES Ethernet extension
6. Flat speaker
7. MAX98357A I2S amplifier
8. 3D-printed custom parts

I wanted to build a cyberdeck, but I didn't want to start with buying a new enclosure and every component specifically for the project.

Instead, I wanted to see what I could create using the hardware I had.

The idea was to combine a Raspberry Pi 4, 5 inch touchscreen, old electronics, salvaged components, and custom 3D printed parts to create a single functional cyberdeck.

The main issue was finding a body that was interesting enough to build around. I had an old AirFiber enclosure sitting around, and its unusual curved shape stood out to me.

Rather than designing a new rectangular case, I chose to keep the original enclosure and create a completely new interior around it.

From there, the concept began to grow: I wanted a cyberdeck to have its own built-in display, speaker, USB ports, Ethernet, physical power control, and portable power, while still retaining the character of the original enclosure.

I also wanted to reuse as much as possible. Components from an old DFRobot NES, a functional Ambrane power bank battery circuit, a flat speaker with a max98357A amplifier, and an old monitor stand all became potential building blocks.

Everything was built with what I had on hand. Old hardware is given a new purpose through design, fabrication, and a little bit of experiment.

The core idea:

1. Reuse what i already have
2. Design around the hardware instead of forcing the hardware into a standard case, 3D print only what is needed to make everything work together

Before getting into the electronics, I wanted to start with the most unusual part of this build: the old airfiber enclosure, which I didn't buy specifically for the cyberdeck.

The main thing was to find a body that was interesting enough to become the body of Cyberdeck.

My friend had an airfiber as part of their network setup. After they moved and eventually cleared out their equipment, the airfiber was left behind, closed up and unused.

I ended up bringing it home.

For a long time, it just sat around. I knew it was an interesting piece of hardware, but I had no particular use for it. I kept the body, though. Then one day, I noticed it in the trash and began to wonder what it could become.

One day, I was looking through trash cans for something to reuse when I came across it, and the idea of using it as the body of the cyberdeck began to take shape.

Before tackling the cyberdeck itself. I looked through some of the old hardware I already had to see what could be resolved.

One of those things was a DFRobot NES that I had purchased a long time ago; it wasn't in use anymore, but it still contained useful hardware.

Rather than leaving it unused, I decided to open it up and see what I could salvage.

The main components I extracted for this project were the USB and Ethernet extension hardware.

One of the first issues I encountered was that the original enclosure contained several screw mounting posts and internal structures that were useful for the arifiber original hardware but took up space.

Since I was replacing the original electronics with my own 3D printed structure, some of those mounting points were no longer required.

I carefully removed a few of the unused screw holders to create more space for the 3D components.

It was an important part because the available space inside is limited; removing unnecessary internal structures gave me more room to position the Raspberry Pi, display, speaker, ports, and writing while keeping the original outer shell intact.

Before designing the frame, I measured the usable dimensions of the original air fiber enclosure.

The main enclosure measures approximately 15.5 cm wide and 24.1 cm long. The outer edge of the enclosure is approximately 2.14 cm wide, which had to be considered when designing the frame and the 3D printed parts.

These measurements were used as a starting point for creating the 3D model and ensuring that the new frame fit properly inside the original enclosure.

After measuring the enclosure and creating the initial frame, I used it as the foundation for designing the entire cyberdeck body in Fusion 360.

I designed the body to the actual hardware. Firstly, Raspberry Pi 4, 5 inch touchscreen, speaker, USB ports, power button, and other components.

I also modified the internal arrangement to ensure that everything fit properly inside the Airfiber enclosure and that there was enough room for electronics and wiring.

The first view depicts the front design and the location of the touchscreen, speaker ports, and controls. The second view shows the interior of the body,including the Raspberry Pi 4 and the internal mounting structure.

I started assembling the individual components in their respective positions.

I wanted each part to have its proper place in the body rather than having the electronics simply lost inside the enclosure.

I installed the flat speaker, USB and Ethernet extension adapters, power button, and other supporting components in the sections designed for them.

The salvaged extension hardware from the DFRobot NES was fitted into the 3D printed body so that the ports would line up correctly with the enclosure's openings.

I also placed the speaker in its designated mounting area and ensured there was enough space around it to wire the MAX98357A to it; there was already a screw hole to secure it in place so it didn't collide with any other hardware.

I inserted the touchscreen into its designated opening, then mounted the Raspberry PI 4 within the display into its designated space and installed it in the structure I had designed specifically for it. I had to screw them in place so they didn't fall off during use.

I checked the alignment of the touchscreen with the front body and ensured that the Raspberry Pi had enough clearance for the necessary connection and wiring.

I used hot glue to secure the flat speaker, MAX98357A amplifier, and salvaged USB/Ethernet extension adapter in their respective positions.

Since these components do not have dedicated screw mounts, hot glue provided me with a simple fix to hold them in place without having to redesign the printed body.

I also used hot glue to insulate the components and their exposed connections from the surrounding parts, reducing the possibility of accidental contract and short circuits.

I applied enough glue around the mounting area to ensure that the components were held in place and did not come loose while being moved around.

After everything had been glued, I double checked that the components were properly positioned and that the connectors and wiring had enough room.

I chose to reuse an Ambrane power bank as the portable power source. I already have

The power bank was still in working order, so instead of buying a new battery or power module, I decided to give it a second life inside the cyberdeck

I used the power bank's existing battery and power management circuitry to connect its 5V output to the Raspberry Pi 4. The Raspberry Pi's positive output is connected to physical pin 2 (5V), and the ground is connected to physical pin 6 (GND).

The same 5V and GND connections are also used to power the remaining components that require them.

Reusing Original Power Button

I also wanted to keep the power bank's internal power control rather than connecting the cyberdeck's power button to a Raspberry Pi GPIO. I connected an external button to the ambrane power bank PCB, which already had the button. so i've solder it onto the its orignal power button. essentially extending the original Power Button.

This allowed the button to control the power bank in the same way it did in its original form. Using this existing power bank meant I could reuse a functional piece of hardware while retaining its original charging and battery management circuitry.

To make the power wiring cleaner, i created a small common power distribution point using a 1x3 piece of prototype board and L shaped pin header

I used the Raspberry Pi's physical pin 2 (5V) and physical pin 6 (GND) as the main power connections

I soldered L shaped header pins into the small prototype baord also connected to the battery. so that the power connection would be accessible from above then i had accessible 5V and GND points to power the other electronics includiong the MAX98357A amplifier and the DFRobot NE extension board

This made the internal wiring much cleaner and gave me simple common power point for the components

Audio Connections

MAX98357A was connectted to the Raspberry Pi using the I2S interface:

1. VIN - 5V
2. GND - GND
3. DIN - pin 40 (GPIO21)
4. BCLK - pin 12 (GPIO18)
5. LRC - pin 35 (GPIO19)

The flat speaker was then connected to the MAX98357A's speaker output

DFRobot Extension Board

The salvaged DFRobot entension board also uses the common power connections:

1. VCC - 5V
2. GND - GND

Its USB and Ethernet connections are connected directly to the Respberry Pi's corresponding ports this setup gave me a simple way to distribute power.

After finishing the wiring, I needed to secure the ambrane power band inside the enclosure so it wouldn't move while being handled.

I positioned the power bank in the available space inside the enclosure and checked that it did not interfere with the Raspberry Pi, wiring, or other components. Once I was done, I glued the power bank to the enclosure to keep it firmly in place.

I also made sure that the pwoer button and charging connection remained accessible for use this gave a battery ficed position and helped keep the inside of the enclosure.

After mounting the components, wiring them, and securing the battery, it was time to put everything together inside the original AirFiber enclosure.

I carefully positioned the entire 3D printed assembly inside the enclosure and aligned it with the original screw mounting points. At this stage, I was primarily concerned with getting everything properly aligned and seated inside the enclosure before permanently securing it

I secured the assembly to the AirFiber enclosure using screws.

The original enclosure had eight mounting points, which I used to securely attach the new 3D printed body on top of it.

I tightened the screws evenly and made sure that the frame was securely held in place without putting too much pressure on the enclosure.

This gave the cyberdeck a strong mechanical structure, with the new 3D printed body securely mounted inside the original AirFiber shell.

I wanted to add a small detail to finish the cyberpunk look of the build.

I 3D printed an Arasaka logo and added it to the top of the cuberdeck. There was a small amount of unused space in the left corner of the top body, so I decided to use it for the logo.

After printing it, I placed the logo in the left corner and glued it down.

It is a simple addition, but it helps make the enclosure feel more like a deliberate cyberdeck design rather than a collection of reused parts.

Use Raspberry Pi Imager and install

Raspberry Pi OS (64-bit) - Desktop

Dont use lite right now because i have a touchscreen and ened to test the graphical interface. raspberry pi's documentation describes the desktop edition as the standard GUI system.

During Flash set your:

1. username/password
2. Wifi
3. hostname
4. timezone
5. SSH, if remote access needed

First Boot

once it boots update it :

Install basic testing tools

Important for the build are

1. htop. Cpu,Ram,temp monitoring
2. usbutils. Check USB devices
3. alsa-utils. test audio
4. i2c-tools. test i2c devices if had any
5. git. download project software,scripts
6. curl/wget. dwonload files
7. neofetch. quick systeminfo

Test USB ports

after connecting salvaged USB extention

plug in a usb keybaord or flash driver and run it again

it should appear connected device.

Test Ethernet

connect Ethernet and run

you should see an interface such as

then

this confirms basic network connectivity

Testing Speakers

for the MAX98357A, this is slightly diffrent cus its an i2s audio amplifier so dont assume it will work just by plugging it into usb,audio jack

verify the pi that it has audio devices

then

For the custom monitor mount, I reused a PCB plate I already had.

I first had marked pointers so that I could make existing enclosure screw holes on it.

Because I didn't have a drilling machine at the time, I made the holes manually. I used a hammer and a pointed screw to create the initial opening, and then used a shaping tool to enlarge and clean the holes until the screw fit properly.

Once the four holes were completed, the plate could be screwed to the monitor mounting section. However, I needed a way to connect the plate to the rest of the monitor mount, so I drilled a hole in the mount's setter so that the plates could be attached to it.

Once the four holes were ready, the plate could be screwed to the monitor mounting section, but I also needed a way to connect the plate to the rest of the monitor mount. For this, I made a hole in the setter of the mount so the plate could be attached to it. After fitting everything together, I noticed there was still some space between parts and I couldn't tighten the screw any further.

After fitting the mounting plate to the monitor mount, I noticed that there was still some space between the parts. I also couldn't tighten the screw any further because of the available clearance. I didn't want the mount to remain loose or weak, especially since it would eventually support the entire cyberdeck.

To strengthen the connection, I plastic welded the upper section of the mount. This helped fill the gap and reinforce the joint, giving the mount more strength and rigidity.

Then I double checked the connection to ensure that all of the parts were securely connected before assembling the mount on the stand and enclosure. This was a minor but significant modification because the mount had to support the weight of the cyberdeck without flexing or breaking.

I moved on to attach the mount to the cyberdeck itself. I screwed the custom mount securely onto the back of the cyberdeck enclosure after positioning it on the back of the airfiber enclosure and aligning it with the mounting holes I had prepared earlier.

With the custom monitor mount ready, it was time to connect the cyberdeck mount and monitor stand.

First, I placed the custom mount against the back of the cyberdeck and screwed it directly to the cyberdeck enclosure through the mounting holes. I prepared earlier. Once the mount was securely attached to cyberdeck, I assembled the remaining parts of the monitor stand.

The next step was to position the mounted cyberdeck onto the stand body and screw the mount into the stand. This created a solid connection between the cyberdeck and the stand, combining the separated parts into one complete structure.

After tightening all the screws, I checked the entire assembly for movement and ensured the cyberdeck was securely supported.

Testing DOOM on the Cyberdeck

What better way to begin testing a cyberdeck than with DOOM?

So for the first gaming test, I installed DOOM and tried it.

It may be an old game, but it is a great first test to ensure that the display, audio, and overall system are working properly.

After DOOM I wanted to try something a little better so the next was minecraft

I tested actual gameplay rather than just launching the game checking how responsive it felt and how the system handled the load

Testing AAA Game

Time for a serious AAA benchmark.

For the next test, I decided to run Doki Doki Literature Club.

Okay, calling it a AAA game is a bit of a joke, but that's exactly why it made the cut. The point of this short was less about performance and more about having some fun with the testing process.

Testing Broforce

I wanted something faster and more action oriented so I went with Broforce

I wanted to see how the cyberpunk handled actual gameplay with movement effect sounds and constant input

the 5inch screen also makes this feel much more like a handheld gaming machine but it isnt

Using cyberdeck to programe an ESP32

at this point I wanted to move beyond gaming and test what the cyberdeck could do as a maker and a development workstation

I installed Arduino IDE on the Raspberry Pi 4 and connected an ESP32

then used the cyberdeck to write the code and complete it and upload it directly to the esp32

this was more practical test of the project because it showed that the cyberdecl could actually be used for electronics development not just entertainment

BIOS Flashing for the Cyberdeck

I wanted to see how far I could push the cyberdeck as electronics workstation

I connected a CH341A USB programmer and used the Raspberry Pi to work with a compatible flash chip

cyberdeck was now being used to perform a task that normally requires the project

take old hardware and turn it into something genuinely useful

After putting everything together, the old AirFiber enclosure became something entirely different: a fully functional Raspberry Pi 4 cyberdeck.

The build combines a raspberry pi 4.5 inch touchscreen built in speaker and max98357a audio system usb and ethernet extension salvaged from a dfrobot nes, a reused embrace power bank custom 3D printed parts, and a repurposed monitor stand.

The final cyberdeck can be used for much more than just looking at the part I tested with doom minecraft doki doki and broforce. I also used it for development work such as programming an esp32 with the Arduino IDE and working with a ch341a programmer.

What I like the most about the project is where it began. The main enclosure was an old piece of networking equipment that had been sitting unused, and many of the other parts were things I already had or salvaged from older hardware.

Instead of throwing those parts away or leaving them in a box, I combined them with custom 3D printed parts to create a completely new machine.

The result is a portable cyberdeck and maker workstation built from old, repurposed hardware.