Chicken Shed to Electronics Lab: My Backyard DIY Studio Build

by HumanixTechLab in Outside > Backyard

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Chicken Shed to Electronics Lab: My Backyard DIY Studio Build

I Left My IT Job to Build My Own Studio and Electronics Lab (From a Chicken Shed)

This used to be a chicken shed. Sixteen by fourteen feet, sloped metal roof, one finished cement-brick wall, and three sides that were nothing but mesh grill wrapped in shade net and nylon sheeting — open to rain, rats, and every stray current of outside air.

Today it's where I design, build, wire, test, and film every project on Humanix Tech Lab.

I'd left my IT job to come build something of my own — and quickly ran into the most basic possible problem: no spare room. My house is a 2BHK; my parents have one room, my brother and I share the other. Whatever I built, I needed space that was genuinely mine.

Behind the house stood this old poultry shed. I didn't hire a contractor. I designed the whole conversion myself, supervised every single day of construction, and worked to a fixed, honest budget — because this base was never built to carry real weight, and getting that part wrong wasn't an option I could afford to find out about later.

This Instructable is the complete build: the structural reasoning, the mistakes I made and fixed (twice, in two different systems), the safety work I refused to skip, and the room as it's actually used today — not staged for one photo.



Supplies

*(All costs in Indian Rupees, approximate USD in brackets — 1 USD ≈ ₹95.5)*


**Structure & masonry**

- Mason (daily wage labor) — ₹15,750 (~$165)

- Sand (1 tractor load) — ₹3,600 (~$38)

- Cement, 30 bags × 50kg — ₹8,250 (~$86)

- Iron/stone reinforcement for shelving — ₹1,830 (~$19)

- Secondhand door + window frame (local scrap shop) — ₹3,000 (~$31)


**Electrical**

- Electrical pipes + metal junction boxes — ₹2,000 (~$21)

- Wiring (various gauges) — ₹4,500 (~$47)

- Modular switch/socket boxes + indicator lights — ₹7,000 (~$73)

- Copper earthing rod (1m) + 6 sq mm / 1.5 sq mm wire (included above)


**Finish**

- White cement, 3 coats (walls) — ₹1,000 (~$10)

- Floor damp-proof gray paint — ₹1,500 (~$16)


**Studio / filming**

- Godox 80cm softbox — ₹1,600 (~$17)

- Digitek 9ft light stand — ₹700 (~$7)

- 2× bulb holder (Godox) — ₹700 (~$7)

- E27–B22 socket adapter ×2 — ₹200 (~$2)

- 27W LED bulb ×2 — ₹400 (~$4)

- Digitek 150W COB light + 90cm Bowens softbox + 9ft stand — ₹10,000 (~$105)

- ESD mat, 2×5ft (desk surface) — ₹1,000 (~$10)

- 256GB memory card — ₹5,500 (~$58)

- Tube lights + general room lighting — ₹1,000 (~$10)

- BOYA V10 mic (Type-C) — ₹2,200 (~$23)

- boAt Airdopes 352 Pro — ₹1,500 (~$16)

- Type-C hub — ₹900 (~$9)

- Neodymium magnets (background mount)

- Green + gray background cloth

- 2× budget RGB lights with remote


**Camera**

- DJI Pocket 2 (borrowed) + independent stool/chair mount

The Starting Point — Still a Working Chicken Coop

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Before I touched anything, this was still an active coop — old carpets, tags, green shade net, nylon netting tacked over the mesh to keep birds in. Only the back wall was finished cement-brick; the other three sides were pure mesh and shade net, low enough on one side to duck under.

Why the Open Walls Were More Than Cosmetic

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I planned to fill this room with live electronics, exposed LiPo cells, and a running inverter. A structure that couldn't keep out rain and rats couldn't safely hold any of that either. This was the reason the shed had sat unused for years.

Clearing the Space

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Feb 1–4: stripped out all the old carpet, tags, nets, and scrap myself, down to the bare frame.

The First Big Decision — Why Not Brick?

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My first instinct was to brick all three open walls to match the finished one. Standard, durable, done. But the numbers stopped me — three sides at this size needed 1,500–2,000 bricks, a full masonry load on a base that was built for a wire coop, not a brick room.

Reading the Risk — Monsoon and Soil

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I live roughly 30km from the coast, so monsoon here means sustained heavy rain and wind for weeks, not a passing shower. A foundation never engineered for extra load, softened by monsoon-saturated soil, under 1,500+ bricks of new weight, is a foundation that cracks or sinks. I wasn't willing to find that out after the walls were up.

Choosing Cement + Chicken Mesh Instead

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Chicken mesh, tied to the existing metal grill frame with binding wire, then plastered over with a cement-and-sand mix. A fraction of brick's weight, close to it in solidity once cured, without pushing the structure past what the base could hold. Less durable long-term — a trade-off I accepted deliberately.

Plastering All Three Open Sides

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mesh tied, cement plaster applied across all three open walls, full internal wall plastering completed.

Reinforcing the Floor Base

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This structure never had a proper load-bearing floor. Before laying the final floor, I added roughly 6 inches of aggregate + sand + cement as a sub-base — cheap insurance against settling under the shelving, the inverter/battery combo, and daily foot traffic.

Fitting the Door and Window

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Secondhand door and window frame from a local scrap shop, ~₹3,000 (~$31) total. Plain cement floor, no tile — kept deliberately low-cost since I know the structure itself has a limited lifespan.

Adding a Safe Walkway

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One detail I hadn't planned for until I was living with the room: walking from the house to the shed at night meant crossing open soil in the dark. I added a small paved walkway connecting the house gate directly to the workshop door.

Designing the Shelf Grid Around the Heaviest Item

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Off-the-shelf storage assumes household weight. Mine needed to hold an inverter + battery pair (40–60kg combined) plus a component collection that's grown past 400 individual line items. I designed the grid backward from the heaviest item first.

Building the Upper Storage Boxes

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Two rows of three boxes on top, each roughly 20"D × 20"H × 24"W.

Building the Bottom Double-Width Box

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A wide double-width box on the bottom — 48" across, sitting directly on the floor rather than raised — sized specifically for the inverter and battery to sit side by side without stressing anything above.

Routing Wiring Through the Shelf Structure

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Wiring conduit runs straight through the cement shelf structure itself, so the inverter connects cleanly without loose cable runs across the room.

Organizing Storage by Category

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Every box got one category and stayed there — switches, connectors, LEDs, batteries, motors, controllers, sensors, drivers, power modules, step-up/step-down converters, protection boards. Transparent grid boxes for fast-access items; day-to-day tools in their own boxes; flammable liquids kept spaced apart on their own shelf, away from meters.

Building a Small Prayer Shelf Into the Same Run

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Alongside the storage cupboards, I built a small cement prayer shelf into the same run — a quiet, personal addition, not a functional one.

Planning the Electrical Layout

I'm not a licensed electrician — this documents what I did, not a recommendation to skip a professional. This room runs soldering irons, chargers, an inverter, and a heat gun, sometimes simultaneously, so I focused on over-building the safety margin rather than cutting it close.

Installing the Modular Switch Points

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Switch points split between inverter power and direct high-power sockets — 8×2 on one wall, 1×8 for the inverter setup, 1×12 on the opposite wall, plus additional lighting/fan points. Each modular unit pairs a high-amp and low-amp option: 16A socket + 20A switch for high-draw tools, 6/10A socket + 10A switch for everyday use.

Wiring Independent MCB Breakers

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MCB breakers sit on both the room circuit and the separate inverter line, so either can be cut independently.

Installing a Dedicated Earthing Rod

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Rather than rely on the house's existing earthing, I put in a dedicated rod for this room: 1-meter copper, driven into the ground, wrapped in 6 sq mm wire back to the breaker box, distributed at 1.5 sq mm to every socket.

Keeping Dusty/Hot Work Outside

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Two additional high-power sockets sit outside the room entirely, reserved for cutting and heat-gun work — so that work never happens near the component shelves at all.

Finishing the Walls in White Cement

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Three coats of white cement — chosen for light reflection during filming, not aesthetics.

Finishing the Floor

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Gray damp-proof floor paint, for a clean on-camera background.

A Tool-Free Way to Mount the Background

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My roof support structure is metal, so instead of drilling holes or rigging rope for the filming background, I mount the cloth using strong neodymium magnets directly against the metal roof support rods. No holes, no permanent fixtures — I can change the background in under a minute.

First Attempt — Plain Green Cloth

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I started with a plain green cloth, expecting standard chroma-key masking to work cleanly.

The Problem — Green Edges Wouldn't Clean Up

It didn't. My edges kept showing thin green lines no matter how I adjusted lighting.

The Fix — Gray Cloth Over Green + RGB Lights

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I layered a gray cloth over the green, stopped trying to mask at all, and let two low-cost RGB lights do the separation work instead. Simpler than the "correct" method, and it looked better.

First Lighting Rig — Built From What I Had

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Cardboard box, a 9W LED holder, wire held on with tags and tape. It looked fine sitting still.

The Problem — It Couldn't Survive an Open Room

Any breeze through the mesh walls, or a hand brushing the desk, and the whole rig shifted position. I wasn't lighting my projects — I was chasing my own light between takes.

The Fix — a Real Softbox

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I replaced it with a Godox 80cm softbox + 9ft stand.

Adding a Second Softbox for Shadow

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A visible shadow on one side once I started shooting regularly led me to add a second, larger octagonal softbox + COB light — a one-time investment I don't expect to touch again.


Camera Stability — a Second Failure

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I mount a borrowed camera for filming, and initially clamped it directly to my desk. The desk sways while I'm actively working — soldering, tightening screws, moving components — and every bit of that motion showed up as shake in the footage.

The Fix — Decoupling the Camera From the Desk

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I moved the mount to an independent wooden stool, seated inside a plastic chair for extra stability, physically separate from the desk. Camera motion dropped to zero.

The Audio Problem — an Echo I Couldn't Cut

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New plaster, a metal roof, and a low ceiling turned out to be a near-perfect recipe for echo. My first voiceover takes came back with a reflection I couldn't fully clean up in post.

Why I Didn't Use Acoustic Foam

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I priced out acoustic foam, then stopped — this room stores flux remover, isopropyl alcohol, and gas lighters for heat-shrink work. Foam is flammable too, and lining the walls in it meant adding a large fuel source to a room that already carries real fire risk.

The Zero-Cost Fix — a Blanket Booth

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I built a small isolation booth around just the mic and laptop using thick woven winter blankets already in the house — clipped up on three sides with ordinary cloth-hanging clips and rope, with another blanket laid flat on the floor underneath. Zero extra cost, and the echo dropped out completely.

Real-World Use, Not a Staged Set

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Every shelf gets opened, every socket gets used — the lights above this desk have been on for every project published since, including a 3-in-1 power tester, an eye-controlled wheelchair, a browser-controlled RC car, and a health-monitoring device currently being wired on this same bench.

Cost + Time Summary

(All costs in Indian Rupees, approximate USD in brackets — 1 USD ≈ ₹95.5)

Structure & Electrical

  1. Mason (labor): ₹15,750 (~$165)
  2. Sand: ₹3,600 (~$38)
  3. Cement, 30 bags: ₹8,250 (~$86)
  4. Shelf reinforcement (iron/stone): ₹1,830 (~$19)
  5. Door + window: ₹3,000 (~$31)
  6. Electrical pipes/junction boxes: ₹2,000 (~$21)
  7. Wiring: ₹4,500 (~$47)
  8. Switches/sockets/modular boxes: ₹7,000 (~$73)
  9. White cement (walls): ₹1,000 (~$10)
  10. Floor paint: ₹1,500 (~$16)
  11. Subtotal: ₹48,430 (~$507)

Studio / Lighting / Audio / Camera gear: ₹25,700 (~$269)

Total build cost: ₹74,130 (~$776)

(Roughly 1 month for structure + curing, with electrical and studio setup layered in afterward.)

Finished

A few months ago this was a chicken shed. Now it's the only room in my life where the walls, the wiring, and the shelves all exist because I decided they should — and it's where every future build on this channel starts.

Full build video: https://youtu.be/eOcHxz0fV-8

Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@HumanixTechLab

GitHub: https://github.com/humanixtechlab

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/humanixtechlab/

Comment prompt: "This room still isn't finished — what would you fix first if this were your setup?"