Coffee Cup Cabinet

My wife wanted a cabinet for coffee cups, and she provided a photo of one that had an opening for each cup. I took that idea, and to change it up from one opening per cup, I just made shelves and added some spacers, which help support the upper shelves.

For planning, we determined where we wanted the cabinet in the kitchen, so the width is based on the location, and the height is based on reach for a Thai person. The cabinet frame is about 33" wide, 23" tall, and 5" wide I will give precise measurements in the materials list and during the build. You can omit the back panel if you want, although I went with a back to prevent ants and little crawly things from getting, after all, I am in Thailand.

Think of this Instructable as a guide more than hard fast rules to building this. The joints I used are common butt joints, (sides are full height and the top and bottom go between them), so if you want to use dowels, you need knowledge of how to use them, if you want to use screws, know how to do that, etc. Not all steps are covered in detail, and the reason for that, is different methods can be used based on your preference, but I will explain briefly how to do each step.

Note: I have cement walls so I can place screws anywhere securely, if you have studs and drywall, you need to think about where you will place hangers on the cabinet or adjust the width accordingly.

For the measurements, I use metric, there is plenty of online tools to convert the measurements to Imperial if you need.

Rule of thumb is not to cut all the pieces to size at once, just the frame first, then once that is assembled, take measurements for the shelves, spacers, and doors. Reason for this, is if the frame is slightly larger than planned, the shelves will be too short.

For the Cabinet Frame:

Sides are knot free pine, 58cm long x 12.4cm wide x 2.3cm (7/8") thick.

Top and bottom are knot free pine, and each 80.5cm long x 12.4cm wide x 2.3cm thick.

Reason for the thick wood for the frame, first, the knot free pine looks great! And two, you will be attaching keyhole hangers on the back, and hinges on the front, and you need to recess these so the thick would gives ample surface area.

For the Shelves:

After the frame is assembled, measure from the inside of of one side to the inside of the other side for the shelf length. The shelf stock is pine, mostly knot free, 1.2cm thick, and you will need to rip these to the correct width to account for the rabbet on the back of the frame.

The the Spacers:

Use the same same stock as the shelves, 1.2cm thick and ripped to the correct width as the shelves. These will be described later in the steps.

For the Back:

I used 3mm teak plywood, this will be described later in the steps.

For the Doors:

I used teak, 2cm x 4.5cm, these will be described later in the steps.

Other Parts:

Hinges, I used solid brass butt hinges, 6.5cm or 2 1/2", you will need 4 of these.

Door stays, you will need 2 of these.

Keyhole Hangers, you will need 2 of these, these are 1.7cm x 4.5 cm and about 3mm tall at the dimple where the screw seets.

Decorative wood trim, for door joint.

Dowels if using and proper size bit to match dowels.

Screws if using those plus plugs or dowels to fill holes.

Screws, M3.5x50 (#6 2"), x4, these are for the hangers.

Tools:

Table saw

Miter saw

Router, a router table is helpful but not required, 1cm straight and a rabbeting bit are all you need. Fence is also needed.

Jig saw

Drill press

Drill

Drill bits, various sizes, for drilling for dowels I use Star-M bits, which are the best in my opinion.

Dowel points

Chisel

Mallet

Hammer, and 3/4" nails

Sander, with 120 and 240 grit paper

Clamps, as needed, I also used two strap clamps

Rule, or tape measure

Wood glue

Polyurethane or finish of your choice, and brushes

Wood putty, as needed

NOTE: Use all tools according to manufacturer instructions, I am not liable for any mishaps or mistakes. Be aware of your surroundings. Know how to properly use any power tools.

For this step you need the top, bottom, sides, and back panel. The standard way to make the frame, which is just a box, is the sides are the full height of the cabinet, with the top and bottom pieces go in between them. How you connect these is your choice, I used dowels, specifically two 8mm dowels at each joint.

Once the stock is cut to the correct dimensions, we need a rabbet on the backside of each piece. Two ways you can do this, first (what I used) is to use a router table and mill a rabbet half the width of a board that is only as deep, or just 1mm deeper, than the back panel, you can see in the first photo the rabbets on each piece. If you mill the rabbets like this, you will have to open spots on the sides of the frame after it is assembled, easily filled with putty, not like anyone is going to be closely looking at the bottom or top of the cabinet.

The second way is to leave the edges untouched, assemble, then use a handheld router with a rabbeting bit, set with the correct bearing to mill the rabbet half the wide of the frame, that you run around the inside edge, keep in mind you need to chisel the corners square or round the corners on the back panel.

Mark the pieces with a pencil, top, bottom, left, right and arrows for up and down, if dowel, very important to know where the pieces go! Mark the pieces on the back edges of the boards.

To mark the holes for dowels or even when predrilling for screws, we are going to put the front edges of the cabinet, face down on the worksurface, this ensures that the butt joints on the front are perfectly lined up.

To assemble the frame with dowels, place the bottom piece on your worksurface, front side down (I use my table saw table with the blade and riving knife retracted below the table surface). Place a side piece on the work surface, front side down, next to the bottom, and butt that up against the bottom, that is how that joint has to look when completed. There is several ways to do this. The method I used was dowels, so now take the bottom board and the edge that was against the side board, mark two points with a pencil in the middle of the board and spaced equally apart, drill the correct size hole for the dowels you are using. Insert dowel points in the holes and place the board front edge down on the worksurface, and place the side board on its front edge, same orientation as it was when it was standing up, use a square to line up the side to the bottom until the dowel points just touch the side board, then give the side board a thump with a mallet, and you should have two points transferred to the side board, drill each of those only about halfway into the wood (I used a drill press) using the same bit as you previously used. Insert dowels in each piece to dry fit, and you should have a snug butt joint. Repeat for the remaining three joints.

Another method is pocket screws, keeping mind you need to go from outside the top or bottom of the frame, not from the inside, if you go from the inside, there is very little the screw is actually holding, so you have to go from the outside and either use the plastic hole covers or the wood plugs which can be cut and sanded.

Another method is simply screws. You need a hole for the screw head so it can be plugged and cut, and a pilot hole for the shank and threads.

All three methods are fine to use.

Assembly

If you used dowels, and the frame dry fit, now it is time for glue and dowels. If using dowels, spread glue on the edge grain of the top or bottom piece, glue the dowel holes and insert dowels in a side piece, go back spread a bit more glue on the end grain, and the glue holes, fit the pieces together and tap into place with a mallet. Repeat with the other end of the side piece, then you can turn that over and have a side piece with the "top" and bottom" pieces on each side, facing upwards. This time you will glue both end grains, dowels, dowels in the side piece, and fit that right on top, tap into place with a mallet.

If you have bar clamps that open greater than your box is wide lengthwise, use those to clamp the corners, if not, use band clamps which is what I did. From the second photo, I clamped two angle braces on one end, and have a square sitting on the bottom to show square.

Before I placed the cabinet frame on the floor like this, I laid the box flat on my worksurface and measured diagonally corner to corner with a steel rule, then measured the other corner to corner, I was 1mm out of square, which is acceptable. Then I put the corner braces on and it came out less than 1mm out of square, I was happy with that, and no one is going to see that. Set aside and let the glue dry.

Once the frame is built and dry, time now for the back panel. Now if you cut the rabbets on the individual frame pieces before assembly, simply measure the width and length of the opening between the rabbits and cut the panel and test fit to ensure it fits securely in place, 1mm gap is fine. I used 3mm teak plywood, and the teak faces inwards to the cabinet.

If you opted to use a rabbeting bit in a router, go ahead and cut the rabbet on the inside of the back of the frame, approximately half the width of the frame. For depth, you want fit the panel just slightly below the surface of the frame, about .5 to 1mm is perfect. Now decide if you want the rounded corners or to cut them square with a chisel, the rounded is ok as long as there is enough surface on the rabbit so the round parts is not visible from the front. If you leave rounded, then round the corners of the panel. After you have done, now measure and cut your back panel.

Once you are satisfied with the panel and fit, remove the panel, remembering which way it goes back in place, then apply a bead of wood glue along the corner of the rabbet, then set the panel in place. You can choose to just clamp the panel in place, or use nails, spaced about 8 inches apart. Check the inside for any glue runs and wipe those with a damp sponge. Set the cabinet aside for the glue to dry.

Keyhole Hangers

After the glue is dried, next parts to get ready are the recesses for the keyhole hangers. Lay the box on your worksurface with the back panel facing up, pick either the top board or the bottom board, for the top, this is your reference, as once the hangers go in place, the frame can only hang one way. On a side panel, I measured 9cm from the top, use a square and mark a line on the back of the cabinet, position your keyhole hanger, just inside the outer edge of the cabinet and draw a line to mark the width of the hanger, make another mark at the end of the hanger and use a square to make a line, now you should have rectangle, that is where the hanger will go, even though the hanger is rounded on the ends, just cut a square, it is on the back of the cabinet, no one will see that or even care it is a rectangle.

Now, using a chisel or router method of your preferred method, cut the recesses for the hangers. I used a chisel. The depth of my recesses was 3mm, which was the thickness of the plywood back panel, and the hanger will be flush to the pine side.

Note for Photos 2 and 3, see the rabbet cut at the top left of the photos? I milled the rabbets on my router table before assembly, these rabbet areas are on the top and bottom of the frame, they will be filled with filler and sanded.

I used solid brass butt hinges, also called leaf hinges, which to me give a nice look to the cabinet and can showcase your woodworking skills.

Turn the frame right side up so the back panel is on your work surface. Now that you know the "top" of cabinet, you now know the left and right sides.

To mark out the hinge locations, I marked 8cm up from the bottom and place an X on the wood above that line, and 8cm down from the top and place an X on the wood below that line. The Xs mark where the hinges go, the hinge at the bottom will go up from that mark, and for the top hinge, it will do down from that mark. The hinge location is purely aesthetics on what you like, but they should be evenly spaced from and bottom. Use a square and mark a line.

Now take a hinge, close it so the sides, are together and the round part on one side, now open the hinge and put one side on the face of the cabinet frame, and press the other side down so it is flat on the side of the cabinet. The sides are called leaves. One leaf on the frame, and the other leaf down against the side, that "leaf" will eventually be attached to the door.

Hold the hinge securely and use a pencil and mark the side and other edge of the hinge on the face of the frame. Do this on both sides of the cabinet as we will have two doors.

Now grab a chisel and a mallet, and you need to carefully and accurately, tap the chisel in along your pencil marks on the three pencil lines. These are your starting marks regardless of which method you use to cut the recesses. Keep your chisel sharp, no one likes a dull chisel.

Now to cut the recesses, you have two options, one you can cut these with a chisel, or the second option is it to use a hand held router, which is the method I used and will describe. For using a router, you need to have an understanding of how to use a fence with your router and how to use your router, if you are unsure of how to do this, test this on some scrap wood first. You need to install a straight bit in your router, a 1cm bit is ideal for this. Set the depth of cut to the thickness of the hinge. Attach the fence to the router, and you need to set the width of the fence so the bit at the widest part, just touches your pencil line on the length of hinge.

Now, holding the router securely, with the bit NOT touching the wood, turn on the router and carefully guide the router in on a line, the top of the hinge line or the bottom of the hinge line, do this for both top and bottom lines, then you can run the router along the line connecting the top and bottom lines, the fence will keep this straight, then you can remove the material between the lines, as shown in Photo 1. When this is completed, now take your chisel and clean up the edges, and your hinge should fit perfectly in the recess, as shown in Photo 2.

Repeat this for the remaining hinges. Cleaning up each routed recess with a chisel and fitting each hinge. Set the hinges aside for now after you have done this.

Now we can work on shelves and spacers. For my cabinet height, I went with 3 shelves, equally spaced out between the height of the cabinet, if you have a larger cabinet, you may want more shelves. I determined the spacing using my tallest coffee cups.

For the spacers, or supports, for the shelves, since I am using thin pine for the shelves, I went with 2 spacers, equally spaced, to support the bottom shelf, one spacer to support the middle shelf, and two more spacers to support the top shelf, the reason for this is looks as well as functionality.

Here is where you are going to use a table saw and a miter saw. Use scrap wood first to set the precise width you need on the boards, keep in mind, the the shelves are not the width of the cabinet, you need to subtract the thickness of the back panel. One you have your width determined and tested with a scrap piece, you can rip your three shelves and another board or two for spacers. Goal is the shelves and spacers are perfectly flush with the front of the cabinet. 1st Photo shows the cabinet on table in the background, table and miter saws setup.

Now you can use your miter saw to cut the shelves to length, remember, a smidgen longer is ok, as you can shorten that. You want the shelf to fit snugly in place, not forced into place, which will cause warping. 2nd Photo shows the shelves and spacers all cut. Cut a couple of extra spacers, these will come in handy when installing the shelves in the cabinet frame.

Determine the shelf spacing you want and cut spacers to length. Once all the shelves and spacers are cut and dry fitted, sand them, do not sand the mitered cuts. 3rd Photo shows all the parts after sanding and ready for assembly.

To assemble these, you have several option, you can screw the shelves in place through the sides and cover the holes with plugs, another option is to drill through the side and into shelves for visible dowel joints, and another option is to just glue the shelves into place, which is the option I used.

4th Photo. First thing to do is attach the spacers to the shelves using glue and screws. I used a right angle block clamped to a shelf, draw a line to indicate center of each spacer then drill counter sink holes, even spaced, then apply glue to the end of a spacer, position that in place, and screw through the shelf into the spaces. You can plug these with dowels or simply with filler, since these will be on the inside and hopefully have coffee cups on them so they are not really seen. I used filler. Repeat these steps for all the shelves, then set aside for the glue and filler to dry. Then you can sand off the filler or cut and sand the plugs.

5th Photo. Now comes assembling the shelves in the cabinet, which is straightforward provided you have the spacers mounted at right angles to the shelves. Lay the cabinet frame on its back on a flat worksurface. Here is the steps I used. The photo shows the bottom shelf going in first. If you have extra spacers handy, put one in each end where the shelf goes, if not, then measure and put a pencil mark where the bottom of the shelf should be when installed.

Now apply a thin bead of glue to the back of the shelf and the left and right edges, and on the back of each spacer, and on the bottom of the spacers, carefully insert this into the cabinet, use a damp sponge to wipe away any excess glue. Use bar clamps and clamp the shelf to the bottom of the frame, across the spacers, if you used extra spacer blocks, the shelf should be sitting on them, and you can remove those. Also verify that the front edge of the shelf and spacers is flush with front of the frame, if you have a little twist in the shelf, use clamps to hold the front edges flush. Allow the glue to dry.

When you repeat this for the middle shelf, use extra spacers and the shelf will be fitted perfectly on the left and right. When that is dry, you can install the last shelf.

After all the shelves are in and all the glue is dried, measure from the bottom of the frame to the middle of each shelf, turn the cabinet over so the back is facing up, then use those measurements and mark from the bottom up for each shelf center, draw lines across, and place 2-3 small nails in each shelf, this ensures the back panel does not come loose from the shelves.

5th Photo. The cabinet is now looking like a cabinet, next is door frames.

These are basic stile and rail door. For these, I used teak stock that is 2cm x 4.5cm. When it comes to door frames, there is many options, I went with stile and rail as it is a classic look. If you want miters, go with that, if you want to do laps, go with that. I used screws and glue and visible plugs, which makes it look like visible dowel joinery. If I had longer dowels on hand I would have certainly went with visible dowels and no screws.

First thing we need to do is mark the exact center of the cabinet on the front of the frame. With the cabinet on its back on your work surface, measure the exact width of the cabinet across the bottom, divide that measurement by 2 and measure from one side and place a mark, and to double check, measure from the other side and the mark should be the same location. Now do this across the top front of the cabinet, these are your center references, these will be important shortly.

Now just like cutting the shelves after you have the frame built, now we can measure the stiles, which are the uprights on the left and right side of each door frame. So to do this, simply measure across the front of the cabinet on either the left or right side, then do the same on the other side of the cabinet, the numbers should match. That is our stile length.

Use your miter saw and square up one end of 4 pieces of stock, check the cuts with a combination square to ensure it is square. Now now measure from the squared end of a piece of stock and mark the length, us a square and mark a line. Now you can place two pieces of stock on the miter saw, squaring up ends and lining up your mark on the blade, keeping in mind the thickness of the blade (I always put stock to the left of the blade and line the mark to just before the left side of the blade). My saw has a built in clamp so I clamp everything in place, then make the cut, and you have two stiles. Check them on the front of the cabinet and they should be perfect in length from top to bottom. Now cut two more stiles. If you have a miter saw workstation, then use a stop block and you will have perfect stiles.

Now we need to cut rails, start by placing a stile on the left side of the cabinet lined up with the cabinet edge, then another one just to the left of the centerline reference marks at the top and bottom of the front of the cabinet, then repeat with the right side, one aligned to the right edge, and another one just to the right of the centerline marks. A rail will go in between each pair of stiles.

Measure between two stiles, the measurement should be the same for the other end, as well as the other pair of stiles. Just like with the stiles, square up the ends of two pieces of stock, then cut two rails at the same time, and both will be exactly the same length. Check each end with a combination square to ensure each is square.

Once you have all the pieces cut, arrange them with the best sides facing outward. Get your clamps and glue ready as well as a damp sponge. Now take the frame pieces and place them upside down in the order, this so when you glue them, the faces of the fronts will be all flush.

Set your clamps up, place a two stiles on the rails, spaced far enough apart to accept the rails. Take a rail and apply glue to each end and place between the stiles, repeat with the second rail, now start closing the clamps, applying pressure evenly, ensuring the outer edges of the stiles is flush with the rails, and that the bottom side of the faces are flush on the clamps, as shown in 1st Photo. Do a measure between opposite corners then the other opposite corners, they should match, if not, adjust pressure on one clamp or the other. Use a damp sponge to remove any excess glue, do not worry about glue on the face, we will sand that off later. Set this aside to dry and clamp up the next set of parts, doing the exact same process. Clamped frame shown in 1st Photo.

Once the frames have dried, you will have two nice frames, but now we need to set some screws. I used a drill press for this next step, but if you are good with a drill, you can easily do this. I chose to use one screw at each joint, if you want to use two screws, you can easily do that as the procedure is the same.

I marked out on the stiles the center of the width of the rail, then marked the center of stile. Use a drill press and drill a hole the diameter of a dowel (I used an 8mm Star-M bit for accuracy of the hole) and drill about 3/4 the way through the stile, do this for each corner of the frame. For screws, I used SPAX 4x40, which are just over 1 1/2" long and they are true self tapping. Set a screw at each corner, use a dowel and glue to fill the holes, as shown in 2nd Photo. Set the frames aside to dry to overnight.

The next day, you can can flush cut the dowels then sand the frames, the dowels once sanded provide a nice contrast to the frames, as show in the 3rd Photo.

The two frames completed are shown in the 4th Photo.

Now we need to cut hinge recesses on each frame. The process using a router is exactly like cutting the recesses on the cabinet frame using a router, but first, we must measure out each one.

Hinges

With the cabinet on its back, place the hinges in the closed position on the frame, then place the door frames on the front of cabinet on top of the hinges, place the hinges, in the closed position on the cabinet frame, line them exactly on the left and right edges of the cabinet, as shown in the 5th Photo. Mark each door frame as left and right.

Use a pencil and mark the edges (top and bottoms of each hinge), then use a square and mark the lines for top and bottom. Now you can turn a door frame over and using the same method of marking the hinge as the cabinet, mark the positions of the hinges. Use the same router router method to mill out the recesses for each hinge, remembering to chisel out the corners so they are square and cleaning up the edges of the recess.

Now you can set the hinges on the cabinet frame and place each door frame on the cabinet, and you should have a perfect match. One more step before we can apply finish, we need to cut a rabbet for the acrylic panels.

Acrylic Panel Rabbets

6th Photo, I used my router table to mill the rabbets for the acrylic panels on the doors using a rabbeting bit. Then used a straightedge to mark out the square corners.

7th Photo, removed the rounded area with a chisel, now the doors can accept square acrylic panels.

If you marked and recessed the hinges as you did on the cabinet frame, take a spare hinge, set it on frame in the closed position, then open it so the leaf attached to the cabinet is down against the side of the door frame, hold the hinge firmly, ensuring the leaf on the frame is tight and the leaf on the side is tight against the side of the frame. Use a self centering pilot hole drill and just lightly mark the center of each hole in the hinge, then remove the hinge and drill pilot holes just a little deeper, ensuring you do not drill through the frame. Repeat with the second hinge, and repeat the steps for the other door.

Now with pilot holes drilled, we need to mount the doors onto the cabinet frame, and the easiest way to have the edge of the cabinet level with a door, while the cabinet is on its back. I used my stool to support the cabinet, and the table saw deck for a door frame, shim everything to get the two parts close to level with one another, as shown in 1st Photo.

Using a screwdriver, not a drill or impact driver, just a screwdriver, set 1 screw in each hinge, then set the remaining screws. Set them snug, as you will take these off later on, you can close that door now. Turn the cabinet around and line up the second door hinges, and use the same process to set the screws. Now your cabinet should have two function doors.

2nd Photo. Since I am not a cabinet builder by trade, and this is my second project requiring hinges, I have a bit of a gap, about 3 to 3.5mm (1/8") between the doors and as in my first project, I use a piece of trim to cover the gap. The trim is simply glued on, however, you have to open the door with the trim on in before you can open the other door, a very minor inconvenience. If your gap is less, you can ignore the step for the trim.

I glue trim on the left door, your preference. Cut the trim to length, apply a small bead of glue to what ever side you want, and place the trim on to cover the gap, keeping it centered above the gap, clamp in place on one end, adjust for center as needed, add more clamps until the entire trim piece is clamped in place, allow to dry overnight. Remove the clamps.

3rd Photo shows the profile of the trim piece.

Door Keepers

Door keepers are the little devices where one part mounts to the door, and one part mounts inside the cabinet, and they snap together to keep the door closed. I used two keepers, one for each door on this cabinet. Installation is quite easy.

The 4th Photo shows the two keepers installed, and the 5th Photo shows where in the cabinet, which is the center vertically and horizontally. To mount these, you need to set the item back equal the thickness of the door mounted part, simply insert the door mounted part into the cabinet part and you can see how far back to mount them, about 1-1.5mm should be fine, but do check the pieces together to make sure.

Since I have a spacer right in the middle of the cabinet, and above that spacer is a shelf, so I just mounted a keeper on each side of the vertical spacer, and under the shelf, as shown in the 4th Photo.

Now to mount the door mounted part, here is the steps I use. First, you need the doors attached on their hinges. Insert the screws in the door piece of the keeper like you would when installing it on the door, then insert that piece in the keeper you installed in the cabinet, as shown in the 6th Photo. Now once that part is in the keeper, angle the screws away from the edge of the keeper, as shown in 7th Photo, reason for this is you want to mount the door part slightly lower than the cabinet part, or the parts may not line up and allow for the door to shut. Once the screws are angled correctly, carefully close the door and lightly set the door frame on the screw points and give the frame a light tap above where the screws are. Open the door frame and you will see two points from the screws, drill pilot holes, ensuring you do not go through the frame, and install the part. Now you can close the door and will hear a click when the keepers connect and hold the door closed. Repeat with the other keeper.

Knobs

If using keepers, like I did, you want the knobs near the keepers to prevent putting strain on the hinges when opening or closing a door. I went a little lower than where the keepers are just because the people in the family here are short and I wanted to make it easier for them to open and close the doors.

Feel free to use knobs or handles, your choice, I went with small round wood knobs (store bought).

To install knobs, this is easy. With both doors closed, simply measure up from the bottom and put mark that is equal distance from the door center trim to the edge of the frame, and make the same mark on the other door frame. Use a drill and drill a hole slightly larger than the screw that came with the knob. If the screw is not as long as the thickness of the frame, just use a counter sink to deepen the hole on the inside of the frame. The screw only needs to stick out about an 1/8" on the front, then you can screw on the knob and tighten with a screw driver.

This is straightforward. Lay a frame front side down on your worksurface, measure the length and width of the frame to the edges of the rabbet you milled, you are measuring the size to cut the acrylic panels. Measure the second door as well and they should be very very close to the same size.

The acrylic I used is 2mm thick, which is the depth of the rabbet. Leaving the paper on the acrylic, mark out your cuts, it is advised to mark the lines about 1mm (about 1/32") shorter on length and width, and if you over estimated, just use some 80 grit sand paper to trim the panel edges down.

I use a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade to cut acrylic, and I use a thin plywood backer as well.

Set the panel into the rabbets, a little loose is ok, , if you have to apply pressure set the panel in, mark those areas on the panel and use 80 grit sand paper to trim those up. Once the panel fits in nicely, it is time for the stays.

The stays I used are small steel pieces, as shown in the photo, there is a hole for a screw and the tab goes over the acrylic but stays out of view from the front of the door. Keep in mind, since the door and acrylic sits flush to the cabinet, you need to keep the screw portion of stay and the tab, away from the edge of the frame and the shelves. I used a stay at each corner and the middle of each side, again, avoiding the middle shelf.

To hang the cabinet, decide on where you want it. I hung mine without the doors since I was not finished with those yet and they are easy to add after it is hung. I used the two keyhole hangers on the back of the cabinet, and just for safety, I added a small L bracket on the bottom, the purpose of this bracket is prevent the cabinet from moving up or out from the wall, which would result in the cabinet falling, and no one wants that.

You need to measure the width between the center of the keyhole hangers on the back of the cabinet, and the measurement from the bottom of the cabinet up to the center of a keyhole hanger.

Once you decide the location, mark the spot for the first hanger, then use a level (I use a 4' level) and mark a line at about the distance between the hangers and mark a line for level, now measure from your first mark to the level line and mark that, those are the marks for the hanger screws.

Keep in mind, I have cement walls, not studs, so if you have a stud wall, there is hangers to use across the top back of the cabinet so you land on a stud with the hangers.

I use steel inserts with 32mm screws, use wall screws as you see fit, keeping mind the weight of the cabinet and cups. I drilled 8mm holes, set the steel inserts flush to the wall, then set a screw in each.

Pick the cabinet up and set one keyhole hanger on a screw, then set the other hanger on a screw. Tap down on top of the cabinet with your hand to make sure the hangers are set fully over the screws. Check level across the top of the cabinet with a level, if not level, you can adjust each screw with a slight tap up with a hammer on either end. Once you are satisficed with the cabinet level, mark the position of the bottom L bracket.

The L bracket is straightforward, just hold the bracket up against the wall, under the cabinet, in roughly the middle of the cabinet, mark the hole on the wall from the L bracket. Remove the cabinet from the wall, drill the hole in the wall for the insert and tap that into the wall so it is flush with the surface, rehang the cabinet, ensuring you tap down on the top to make sure it is seated on the mounting screws. With the L bracket back in place, you can insert the screw into the wall, then one screw up into the bottom of the cabinet.

Your cabinet is now fully mounted, stock with your favorite coffee cups, enjoy.