DIY Air Hockey Table

I chose to build this wooden air hockey table because it uses hands-on woodworking for a fun, interactive project. Air hockey tables rely on smooth surfaces, even airflow, and a strong base, and I wanted to understand how these systems work by designing and building one from scratch. Using wood added an extra challenge, since the table had to be strong, flat, and well-sealed to maintain good airflow.

2x 1 in. x 8 in. x 8 ft Wooden Boards - https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-8-in-x-8-ft-Premium-Kiln-Dried-Square-Edge-Common-Softwood-Boards-914835/100065210?MERCH=REC-_-rv_typeahead_rr-_-100065210-_-2-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a

1/4 in. x 2 ft. x 4 ft. Sande Plywood Project Panel - https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProWood-1-4-in-x-2-ft-x-4-ft-Sande-Plywood-Project-Panel-109023/202093790

48 in. H x 24 in. W White Pegboard - https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProWood-48-in-H-x-24-in-W-White-Pegboard-109099/202093803

3x AC Infinity AXIAL 1751 Fans - https://a.co/d/0azAMGpr

Additional Tools:

1. circular saw
2. orbital sander
3. hole saws (1" and 6")
4. work table
5. 3d printer + filament
6. clamps (regular and L-shaped)
7. drill
8. 25x 2.5" screws
9. 8x 3" screws

Don't forget to wear a mask + safety glasses when working on this project!

Using a circular saw, cut two 4' long wooden planks, as well as two 2' wooden planks with a margin on either side that matches the thickness of the planks.

Mark a line 2" down from the top of the 2' side railing. On top of this line, use a 1" diameter hole saw to cut two holes which are 9" apart. Next, use a circular saw and make a plunge cut connecting the two circles made with the hole saw. If rough, make sure to use an orbital sander to smooth out the gap. Repeat this process for the other 2' side railing, making sure that the holes are of the same height from the top.

Cut the 1" x 1" long strips to match the perimeter of the wooden frame. Nail in one set of the supports 2" down from the top of each of the side railings (below the goalpost holes). Then, leave an inch of space before drilling in the second set of supports. During this process, ensure that one set of screws is offset so that when putting the frame together, they do not block each other (see images above for reference)

Using an L-shaped clamp, secure the four side railings together. Before drilling nails into the frame, ensure that the supports are at the same height as each other. If they are not aligned, it may cause issues later on when attaching the top and bottom frames, as the playing surface may not be perfectly flat. Once all components are checked, drill in two 2" nails into the side of the frame at each corner, which should result in a sturdy frame for further use.

Using a 6" hole saw, drill three holes into the bottom plywood. The holes should be ~11" apart center to center. Once completed, drill in holes to attach the fans using the holes on the fan grill as a reference. Then, attach the fans to the bottom plate, ensuring that the airflow is going the same direction for all three fans.

Once the bottom plate and the frame is complete, unscrew the top set of supports. Then, place the bottom plate on top of the bottom set of supports. This is more effective than using glue because there is no doubt that the fan plate is going to fall. Next, use gorilla tape (or any other strong tape of your liking) to seal the edges of the fan plate against the frame. This also ensures that minimal air will escape from the bottom of the table. Next, re-attach the top set of supports. If you want more strength during transportation, drill 3/4" screws into the tape to ensure that the bottom plate does not lift (see pictures above).

Finally, set the 2' x 4' peg board on top of the top supports. It should rest slightly above the start of the holes for the goalposts. If you feel air escaping from the edges, use tape to create a seal.

Congratulations! You now have a function and sturdy air hockey table!