DIY Butterfly Watercolor Palette - Faux Ceramic

I love painting with watercolors, so I thought it would be a great idea to create my own mixing palette. What better shape for it than a butterfly—a lovely little creature whose vibrant colors always inspire us! I wanted it to have a smooth finish similar to ceramic, but without needing a kiln or complex firing processes that I find complicated, so I decided to make it using materials I already had at home and frequently use.

This project can be done with different materials depending on what you feel most comfortable working with, such as white cement, plaster, or resincrete, among many others. The crucial thing with any of them—especially materials like cement that can take a very long time to completely dry and lose all humidity—is to let it dry for as long as necessary, as you should never coat it in resin while moisture is still trapped inside!

I asked ChatGPT to generate a flat image of a butterfly using only simple black outlines, like a page from a coloring book. I uploaded it to Autodesk Inventor and started tracing over it. I wasn't aiming for a perfectly exact copy, but rather to follow its general flow. After tracing, I created offsets for every line to give them thickness so I could extrude them; I extruded the outer boundary lines to 4 mm and the internal dividing walls to 3 mm.

I added a bottom base across the entire butterfly structure, and then I spent some time rounding and curving all the edges that I managed to fillet.

I added an additional lower border connecting the tips of the antennae back to the butterfly, making them thicker because I was worried they might break in the final piece.

Next, I created another outer offset of the butterfly and extruded it downward to create more space. Finally, I made one last very thin offset and extruded it much higher than the butterfly itself, creating the master mold enclosure.

I 3D printed the piece in PLA.

I applied UV resin into each of the butterfly's individual compartments and spread it thoroughly using a silicone brush. After filling a few spaces at a time, I cured them under a UV light for a bit. This ensures the final piece doesn't retain the texture of the 3D print, leaving it completely smooth instead.

Next, I applied another type of UV resin—the thick kind (often called "deep" or "dip" UV resin) that is typically used for dipping wire frames to make resin flowers. It is much thicker in consistency, making it ideal for the curved top edges and ridges.

To figure out how much silicone rubber I would need to create the mold, I filled the master mold with water and poured that water into a disposable cup where I marked the level. Then, I marked the midpoint between the bottom of the cup and my first line to easily estimate half the volume. I let both the master mold and the cup dry completely so no water remained.

The ratios for mixing silicone rubber components depend on your supplier's instructions. In my case, it was a 1:1 equal-part mixture, so that's what I prepared. After stirring for a while, I added a tiny pinch of mica powder—a trick a professor gave me back in university. This visual cue helps you see if everything is thoroughly mixed with no unblended streaks left behind.

I poured the silicone rubber into the master mold enclosure and let it cure undisturbed for 24 hours.

I demolded the silicone insert from the master mold frame, and it was completely ready to be used.

Now it is time to mix your chosen product with water; depending on what you selected, the required amounts may vary. If using cement or plaster, I mix in water until it reaches a consistency similar to heavy cream (when it's slightly thick). If using resincrete, follow the manufacturer's exact guidelines.

Note: If you try other materials, please share in the comments so we can all learn from your experience!

Let the cast piece dry thoroughly, then carefully pop it out of the silicone mold.

After the piece is completely dry and you are 100% confident no moisture is trapped inside, cover it with UV resin using a process very similar to the master mold prep: standard fluid UV resin for the internal wells, and thick/dip UV resin for the ridges, top edges, and curves, curing incrementally with the UV lamp.

I signed and dated the bottom with the year. Even though I made this piece for my own personal use, I wanted to record the date because old resins used to turn yellow over time. Nowadays, many labels claim "non-yellowing," so I want to track how it performs over time with regular watercolor use.

Your custom butterfly palette is ready to bring your artistic ideas to life!

Happy making!