Extension on Previous Leverless Controller Design

Like I said in the title this is only an extension of what I have previously posted on Instructables. This project will only cover the changes that were made, how they were made, and why.

SOFTWARE

1. Autodesk Fusion 360
2. Prusa Slicer

3D PRINTS

1. Prusa MK3 Printer or equivalent/larger printer
2. PLA Fliament

MATERIALS PURCHASEABLE ON AMAZON

1. 1 - Raspberry Pi Pico: https://amzn.to/3PYusdB
2. 3 - Mechanical Keyboard Switches: https://amzn.to/49zAAzU
3. 6 - 12mm M3 bolts: https://amzn.to/49w6o8U
4. 1 - USBC Breakout: https://amzn.to/49v8CW7
5. 6 - 24 AWG Solid Wire Rolls
6. 1 - OLED Screen: https://www.amazon.com/Dorhea-Display-3-3V-5V-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B081JDXBWC?th=1
7. 14 - FlashTap Buttons https://www.flexigear-gaming.com/en/products
8. 14 - FlashCaps or FlashCaps(Nylon): https://www.flexigear-gaming.com/en/products/flexigearbuttoncaps

Every File you need to print this project.

From the previous edition, I made the button face larger to hold the buttons easier and to cut down on wrist pain I experienced using the smaller design. The wiring is mostly the same with the three side buttons replacing the 8mm buttons for menuing and the addition of a screen to the top of the structure. For most 3D Printers this file is too large to fit, I recommend cutting it in Fusion and adding holes to put dowels in after printing. Alternatively, cut it and just use tape.

Note: I would not recommend using solely FlashTap buttons for this unless you are extremely confident in your finger control, these buttons have an actuation range of less than a millimeter. After creating this myself, I would say that the FlashTap buttons should be placed on the non-movement keys and fine tuned to your preference from there. To make it easier to modify the placement, you just tape the wires to the connection points using electrical tape before soldering once you have your layout to your preference.

All the soldering should remain the same for the most part as the only things that changed were the location of some of the buttons.

To solder the OLED screen, I would say that it is much easier to take the time to carefully bend the pins around to be able to access them easier, another piece of advice would be to use solid core wire instead of stranded.

Another change that I have seen become more popular when looking at other designs is some sort of angle in the button face to be even more ergonomic. If you are looking for something that will not hurt your hands after long sessions, I would look into those. I will leave links to some of the designs I have seen below to anyone interested.

https://www.printables.com/model/1134842-laban-ergo-leverless-controller

https://www.printables.com/model/513335-splitbox-the-splittable-fighting-game-controller-a

https://www.printables.com/model/1055889-foldable-leverless