FBRC 1/18th EDF30 Slipstream

FBRC 1/18th EDF Slipstream

Welcome to my build guide to assembling a FBRC 1/18^th EDF30 Slipstream. This guide has been made to compliment the assembly manual and fully documents the assembly and set up process in detail to ensure your you get the best out of you build.

Intro

This is my biggest project to date. The goal for this project was to design a fully functional RC car using EDF power with full independent suspension all round while being modular with no irreversible assembly processes so parts can be replaced/swapped out for repair or upgrade. With builds like this there are always a long list of components to purchase. However, all though the design process, I have kept in mind cost and availability and only using readily available components that are not expensive or hard to find.

Please use this guide in conjunction with the assembly manual. This guide follows the assembly manual and explains each step in full detail with extra advice to make it as easy and possible even for beginner builders to ensure you get the most out of this model.

This project has had a lot of challenges along the way and really pushed my CAD, 3D printing and product designing skills. It has been a really fun project from start to finish and I am so excited to finally share with you all. Any feedback on the design, or supporting documentation would be greatly appreciated.

All the 3D printed parts can be downloaded in the links below. If you have a Bambu Lab printer, profiles have been set up for all the parts! (See Makerworld link)

Makerworld: (Link Coming soon!)

Creality Cloud: (Link Coming Soon!)

Spec:

1. FBRC EDF30 Slipstream
2. Scale:1/18th
3. Length: 221.39mm
4. Width: 112mm
5. Height: 58.56mm
6. Wheel Base: 137.5mm
7. Weight: 314g
8. Tyre Diameter 36mm (15mm width)
9. Drivetrain: 30mm Brushed EDF
10. Power: 3.7v (1S LiPo - 300-1200Mah)

Features:

1. Dedicated RC platform for EDF population
2. 1/18th scale
3. Powered by 30mm EDF (or 40mm 3d printed EDF)
4. Reverse thrust braking
5. Runs on a 3.7v 1S LiPo (300 to 1200Mah – Max size battery: 56x31x11mm)
6. Fully independent suspension
7. Operational head lights, tail lights and brake lights
8. Full equipped with metal bearing to ensure smooth running
9. Modular assembly to ease repair and maintenance
10. Can be fully printed on smaller format printers such as the A1 Mini (largest part 120mm X 110mm)
11. All parts have been designed to be printed as easily as possible

Components and Materials:

5 x M2*6mm Bolt

7 x M2*8mm Bolt

1 x M2*12mm Bolt

4 x M2*20mm Bolt

3 x M2*25mm Bolt

7 x M2 Nyloc Nut

15 x M2 Washer

4 x M2 Ball Joint

2 x M2*25mm Threaded Rod

1 x M2 Insert

4 x M2*5mm (OD 4mm) Spacer

30 x M1.7*6 Self Tapping Screw

8 x Bearing 6x2x2.5mm

4 x 25mm Shock with M2 Shock Collets & (x8) M2*8mm bolt)

4 x Tyre 36x15mm (if not using 3d printed TPU tyres)

6 x 4x2mm Round Magnet

230mm of 1.75mm Filament (Approx.)

Electronics:

1 x Mg90s Servo

1 x 30mm EDF (if not using the 3d printed option)

4 x 3mm LED (White/Clear)

6 x 3mm LED (Red)

4 x Resistor - 27 Ohm

6 x Resistor - 75 Ohm

10 x 22 AWG Wire @ 250-300mm (Approx)

16 x 22 AWG Wire @ 50mm (Approx)

2 x 2-20A PWM - On/Off Switch

1 x PWM Signal Reverser

1 x Receiver (Flysky FS-2A used in this guide)

1 x Compatible radio with the receiver (FS-i6X used in this guide)

1 x 7-15A ESC

1 x 3.7v (1s LiPo) battery (300-1200Mah - Max Size: 56x31x11)

Heat Shrink of various sizes

Compatible electrical plugs (to suit your battery, receiver, etc)

Tools:

1.5mm Allen Key / Hex Driver

Pair of Pliers

Flush Cutter

Cable Cutters/Strippers

Tweezers

Lighter or Heat gun to for Heat Shrink

Philips/Crosshead Screwdriver

M0.9mm Drill Bit

M1.5/M1.7mm Drill bit

M2 Drill Bit

M3 Drill Bit

Hand Drill

Modelling Knife

Soldering Iron

Solder

Fine Grit Sandpaper

Needle File

Blue-Tac / Soldering Jig

Calipers/Vernier Gauge

M3 Double sided Tape

Super Glue

3d Printed Parts List:

PN 0001 Main Chassis

PN 0002 Front Subframe

PN 0003 Front Suspension Bulkhead

PN 0004 EDF Pod

PN 0005 Rear Subframe

PN 0006 30mm EDF Pod

PN 0007 30mm EDF Pod Intake

PN 0010 Front Shell

PN 0011 Intake Cowling

PN 0012 Canopy - Non FPV

PN 0013

PN 0014 NS Intake Panel

PN 0015 OS Intake Panel

PN 0016 NS Rear Quarter Panel

PN 0017 OS Rear Quarter Panel

PN 0101 Steering Bar Upright (x2)

PN 0102 Steering Bar

PN 0103 Steering Servo Link

PN 0104 Steering Servo Plate

PN 0105 Battery Tray

PN 0111 OS Front Lower Suspension Arm

PN 0112 NS Front Lower Suspension Arm

PN 0113 OS Front Upper Suspension Arm

PN 0114 NS Front Upper Suspension Arm

PN 0115 OS Front Suspension Upright

PN 0116 NS Front Suspension Upright

PN 0117 OS Front Hub Carrier

PN 0118 NS Front Hub Carrier

PN 0121 OS Rear Lower Suspension Arm

PN 0122 NS Rear Lower Suspension Arm

PN 0123 OS Rear Upper Suspension Arm

PN 0124 NS Rear Upper Suspension Arm

PN 0125 OS Rear Suspension Upright

PN 0126 NS Rear Suspension Upright

PN 0201 Wheel Hub For 36x15 Tyre (x4)

PN 0202 Tyre 36x15 (x4)

PN 0301 NS Rear Wing Blank

PN 0302 OS Rear Wing Blank

PN 0303

PN 0401 Prop 5 Blade 40mm P35

PN 0402 Prop 6 Blade 40mm P35

PN 0411 Prop 3 Blade 40mm P40

PN 0412 Prop 4 Blade 40mm P40

PN 0413 Prop 5 Blade 40mm P40

PN 0414 Prop 6 Blade 40mm P40

PN 0415 Prop 10 Blade 40mm P40

PN 0421 Prop 5 Blade 40mm P45

PN 0422 Prop 6 Blade 40mm P45

PN 0423 Prop 10 Blade 40mm P45

PN 0501 EDF Pod Test Stand

Assembly

I have broken the model down into 5 core assembly groups (Front Suspension, Main Chassis, Rear Suspension, Electronics and Bodywork) and each assembly group is broken down into steps to make it as easy as possible assembling this model.

AS01 Front Suspension

The first assembly is the front suspension assembly. This comprises of front bulkhead, suspension and steering components that will then be directly bolted to main chassis in a later step.

See Pics: AS01 Parts List and AS01 Parts

AS01 Step 01

The first step is to assemble the front hub carriers.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 1

Before assembling, you want to make sure the M2x5mm (OD40mm) Spacer sits freely withing the hub. The spacer is there to stop the inner race of the bearings being pulled in and binding when the axle screw is tightened.

If you find the spacer is not moving freely in its position, you will want to open up the hole slightly using a 4mm or 4.5mm drill bit. It doesn’t need a to be a supper snug fit but making it to large may make it difficult to insert the axle.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 1A

The two 6x2x2.5mm bearings go in the recesses on either side. These are press fit. Depending on your print settings, you may find the recesses are a little too tight. The best method to press them in using a vice one at a time. Line the bearing up with the recess and slowing tighten the vice until the bearing sits flush.

Carry this out for the front hub carriers on both sides

See Pic: AS01 STEP 1B

AS01 STEP 2

Add the front suspension uprights.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 2

There is a grove on the centre of upright and one side curves out slightly more than the other. Make sure when installing the hub carrier, the side that has slightly larger curve is on the same side as the steering arm on the hub carrier. This will ensure that the parts won’t clash when at the max steering angle.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 2A and 2B

Install the uprights onto the hub carriers using M2x6mm bolts. Place a washer between the two connecting points to reduce friction and wear. Lightly tighten both bolts and ever so slightly back them out until the hub carrier can pivot in the suspension upright freely.

AS01 STEP 3

Attaching the Front Suspension Bulkhead and lower suspension arms.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 3

Line the lower holes on the upright with the holes on the shorter side of the lower arms and insert the 1.75mm filament until it sits flush on the other side. the holes have been designed snug enough that the filament has a bit of grip to the parts to stop it from falling out.

This process maybe a little trial and error depending on the quality of your print. To make this process easier, use a length of filament that is easy to handle (150mm or more). As you are inserting the filament twist it in both directions to aid getting it in. You want the filament to be grippy enough to stay in place but loose enough to allow the parts to pivot without resistance. If you find it too tight to get in, use a 1.5mm drill bit to clean/open up the hole ever so slightly.

Once the filament is inserted all the way through, use flush cutters to cut the filament flush at the ends.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 3A

AS01 STEP 4

Attaching the Front Upper Suspension Arms.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 4

Following the same process as the Lower arms, attach the upper suspension arms.

Once attached make sure the suspension moves smoothly and with little resistance.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 4A (Front) and AS01 STEP 4 (Back)

AS01 STEP 5

Fitting the front shocks.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 5

Attach the 25mm Shocks on the mounting positions on the lower arms and shock tower arms using the M2 collets and M2x8mm bolts/screws provided with the shocks.

Once assembled ensure the suspension on both sides fully compressed and decompresses smoothly.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 5A

AS01 STEP 6

Fitting the steering arm ball joints.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 6

to aid installation of the ball joint and to make up the steering tie rods at a later stage. Remove the ball screw from the cup part and keep the cup part to one side for now. Then attach the balls to the steering arms

See Pic: AS01 STEP 6A and AS01 STEP 6B

AS01 STEP 7

Install the front wheels.

See Pic: AS01 STEP 7

Press the tyre onto the rims ensuring the tread direction is correct for each side.

Turn the steering arm so it is facing in at around 45°. Insert a M2x20mm Bolt from the inside of the hub as an axle. Do not use washers on the interface of the bearings as they will bind with the outer bearing race and cause unwanted friction.

Slide the wheel hub onto the protruding bolt/axle. Then using a washer and a M2 Nyloc Nut, lightly tighten the assembly and then ever so slightly loosen the nut until the wheel hub spins smoothly.

See Pics: AS01 STEP 7A and 7B

AS01 STEP 8 Complete

Assembly 1 completed

See Pic: AS01 STEP 8

The assembly of front suspension is now complete. Check the suspension, axels, and steering hubs all move smoothly without binding or catching on anything and then it is time to move on to the 2^nd assembly.

See Pics: AS01 STEP 8A, 8B and 8C

AS02 Main Chassis

The second assembly is adding main chassis components

See Pic: AS02 Parts List and AS02 Parts

AS02 STEP 1

Building up the steering linkage system.

Remove the cup part of the ball joints and put it a side with the previous ones. Then screw the ball part into the steering bar.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 1

The tie rods can be left until Steps 6 and 7 to make assembly easier, however, if you would like to make them now, you can do. Refer to steps 6 and 7 for information.

Now attached the Servo Link to the Steering Bar using a M2x12mm bolt and washer on either side of the link. The Servo Link has a notch on one side make sure the orientated so the notch lines up with the ball joint screw to avoid snagging on it. The link bar only needs to be loosely tightened. Lightly tighten the bolt and ever so slightly back it out until the link bar can pivot smoothly.

For the Steering Bar Uprights, these can be attached to the Steering Bar first like the diagram or the Main Chassis like in this tutorial. Use 1.75mm filament using the same technique used on the suspension to connect them.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 1A and AS02 STEP 1B

AS02 Step 2

Connecting the steering linkage system to the main chassis.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 2

For this part I have a since found it is beneficial (unless you have very long hex drivers) to connect the front suspension assembly (Step 5) before connecting the whole linkage system. If you are following this tutorial, just connect the Steering Bar Uprights to the main chassis for now.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 2A

AS02 Step 3

Installing the steering servo

See Pic: AS02 STEP 3

Ensure you have the servo centred. Use the single servo horn that comes with the servo and install it so it is facing directly up when the servo is in place.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 3A

Now install the Steering Servo Plate using 3 x M1.7mm Self Tapping Screws.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 3B

AS02 Step 4

Connect the Steering Servo Link to the servo. As per Step 2, it would it would be beneficial to carry this step out after Step 5 to make.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 4

Place a washer between the servo horn and the Steering Servo Link and insert the self-tapping screw included in the servo kit into the 4^th hole down on the horn.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 4A

AS02 Step 5

Connecting the Main Chassis, Front Suspension Assembly and the Front Subframe together

See Pic: AS02 STEP 5

There are 3 x M2x25mm bolts that clamp the Front Suspension Assembly between the Main Chassis and the Front Subframe.

Insert the bolts (with a washer) in from the Main Chassis, through the Front Suspension Bulkhead, through the Front Subframe and secured with a washer and a nyloc nut. This part can be a little fiddly. The lower bolt access is through the hole in the front of the battery compartment. The top two are easy to access if the steering system is installed after as mentioned in the previous steps.

Firmly tighten the bolts so that the parts sit flush and level with each other.

See Pics: AS02 STEP 5A and AS02 STEP 5B

Now finish off Steps 2 and 4.

AS02 STEP 6

If you haven’t already, remove the cups off the balls of the M2 ball joints.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 6

AS02 STEP 7

Making up the Tie Rods

See Pic: AS02 STEP 7

Cut two 25mm lengths of M2 threaded rod and attach a ball joint cup to each end to make up two tie rods.

Adjust the length so centre to centre of the ball cups are 31mm apart. Make sure the cups of each Tie Rod are at 90° to each other.

Then pop them back on the balls and check the wheels are correctly aligned.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 7A, 7B and 7C

AS02 STEP 8

Fitting the Battery Tray door.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 8

The parts have been primarily designed for M2 Fixings. This is the only heated insert on the whole project so if you don’t have the equipment, it is possible to use a M3 bolt instead with some minor modifications (see further down in this step).

Insert the M2 Insert into the Main Chassis. If you don’t have the proper tools to insert it, it is possible to use a soldering iron on its own, you just need to be a little more careful so you don’t overheat and melt/warp the part.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 8A

The Battery Tray has to prongs on one end. These fit into the slots at the front of the battery compartment. These need to fit snug, but if you are finding them a little to tight you can always take a little material off the sides of the prongs using a modelling knife or sand paper until then fix nicely.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 8B and AS02 STEP 8C

Then use a M2x6-8mm bolt with a washer to screw through the other end and into the insert.

See Pic: AS02 STEP 8D

M3 Option. If you would prefer to use an M3 bolt instead of using an insert, this is possible. Carefully drill out the hole on the Battery Tray using a 3mm drill bit and use a M3x6-8mm bolt (with no washer) and carefully screw it into the whole where the insert would have been. this option is obviously not as good as using an insert for regular access but a good work around if you want to make the build a little simpler.

AS02 STEP 9 Main Chassis Complete

The second assembly is now complete and ready to move onto the rear suspension in the 3^rd assembly.

See Pics: AS02 STEP 9, 9A, 9B, 9C and 9D

AS03 Rear Suspension

The 3^rd assembly focuses on the rear suspension and EDF module.

See Pics: AS03 Parts List and AS03 Parts

AS03 STEP 1

Making up the hubs on the suspension uprights.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 1

As with the Front Hub Carriers, you want to make sure the M2x5mm (OD40mm) Spacer sits freely withing the Rear Suspension Upright. The spacer is there to stop the inner race of the bearings being pulled in and binding when the axle screw is tightened. If you find the spacer is not moving freely in its position, you will want to open up the hole slightly using a 4mm or 4.5mm drill bit. It doesn’t need a to be a supper snug fit but making it to large may make it difficult to insert the axle.

The two 6x2x2.5mm bearings then go in the recesses on either side. These are press fit. Depending on your print settings, you may find the recesses are a little too tight. The best method to press them in using a vice one at a time. Line the bearing up with the recess and slowing tighten the vice until the bearing sits flush.

Carry this out for the front hub carriers on both sides

See Pic: AS03 STEP 1A

AS03 STEP 2

Connect the upper and lower arms to the Uprights.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 2

Using the same technique as attaching the front suspension, insert 1.75mm filament into the pivot points and cut flush. Make sure the joints pivot free and smooth throughout their range.

Make sure you get the orientation right. The rear suspension has a slight forward sweep to it.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 2A, 2B, 2C and 2D

AS03 STEP 3

Attaching the suspension to the EDF Pod.

In this guide I have already attached the wheels as per Step 7 prior to Step 3. This is just personal preference. Jump to Step 7 for details and return back if you want to attach them now.

There are two types of EDF Pods available, for details on both go to Step 6. For this guide the 30mm EDF option will be used but both integrate with the rest of the model in exactly the same way.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 3

Using the same technique as the rest of the suspension joints, insert 1.75mm filament into the joints and cut flush. Make sure the joints pivot free and smooth throughout their range.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 3A and 3B

AS03 STEP 4

Install the rear shocks.

See Pic: AS04 STEP 4

Attached the shocks to the lower rear arms with the bolts/screws coming in from the front. As with the front shocks, use the M2 collets and M2x8mm bolts/screws provided with the shocks.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 4A

AS03 STEP 5

Install the rear shocks (Continued).

See Pic: AS03 STEP 5

Now install to bolts/screws and collets for the top of the shocks onto the EDF pod. The bolts/screws go in coming from the rear.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 5A

Once assembled, ensure the suspension moves up and returns back down smoothly.

AS03 STEP 6

Installing the EDF.

There are two types of EDF available, Option one is a custom design 40mm EDF using an 8222 DC 3V brushed motor (Typically found in small drones) with custom propellers. The other option is for and off the shelf 30mm brushed EDF.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 6

Custom Designed 40mm version:

The custom designed 40mm EDF version is and additional side project that still needs some tweaks but I’m excited to share it. It has been designed to make use of a small brushed drone motor (8222 DC 3v Brushed Motor) commonly found in smaller drones. Any 40mm propeller should be suitable but I have included variants of my own design to experiment with. I have found the 5-blade variant of the 45-pitch design (Part Number 0421) to currently be the most effective, producing around 35g of thrust on the test stand (see extras near the end of this guide)

The motor mount is a push fit design. Insert the motor through the rear of the pod and push it into the mount until it reaches the front of the mount. The propeller is also a push fit design. You may need to fine tune your printer setting s to get it the fit correctly as it needs to be tight enough to hold onto the shaft while at full thrust but not so tight you can’t push it onto the shaft. I tiny bit of super glue can help if needed.

The power wires are then routed through the larger of the motor mount spars and out through the hole on the offside of the pod.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 6A, 6B and 6C

Off the shelf 30mm EDF version:

This version uses an of the shelf 30mm EDF. If you are looking for performance, this is the currently the better option. On the test stand this version has produced around 45g of thrust.

Insert the EDF into the pod and ensure it fits flush. Then insert the 30mm Pod Intake on top and ensure the intake sits flush with the EDF Pod (this set up will naturally get locked in when attached to chassis and Intake Cowling at a later stage).

Feed the power wires through the hole on the offside side of the EDF Pod.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 6D, 6E, 6F, 6G and 6H

AS03 STEP 7

Install the wheels onto the Rear Suspension Uprights/Hub Carriers.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 7

As mentioned in AS03 STEP 3, this step can be carried out prior to Step 3 or now. Press the tyre onto the rims ensuring the tread direction is correct for each side.

Insert a M2x20mm Bolt from the inside of the hub as an axle. Do not use washers on the interface of the bearings as they will bind with the outer bearing race and cause unwanted friction.

Slide the wheel hub onto the protruding bolt/axle. Then using a washer and a M2 Nyloc Nut, lightly tighten the assembly and then ever so slightly loosen the nut until the wheel hub spins smoothly.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 7A, 7B and 7C

AS03 STEP 8

Attached the rear suspension assembly to the Main Chassis.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 8

Slot the EDF Pod into the gap in the Main Chassis and Line the 4 holes up. Insert 2 M2x8mm bolts on each side.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 8A, 8B and 8C

AS03 STEP 9

Install the Rear Subframe.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 9

To make the assembly easier, the Rear Subframe is best to be installed after the rear lights and their wires have been routed in as it is a tight spot to work in. I have included the installation of the Rear Subframe in this assembly to keep things neat. Once the rear lights and wires have been routed in, refer back to this step to install the Rear Subframe.

See Pics: AS03 STEP 9A, 9B and 9C

AS03 STEP 10 Rear Suspension Assembly Complete

The Rear Suspension Assembly is now complete.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 10

Double check all the suspension operates smoothly, the chassis rolls smoothly and the EDF doesn’t bind on anything and then you are ready to start installing the electrics.

See Pic: AS03 STEP 10A

AS04 Electronics

This section will guide you through adding all the electrical components.

See Pic: AS04 Parts List

Although a relatively simple set up, I have created a Main Wiring Diagram to show how all the running components are linked up and a separate Lights Wiring Diagram to make it as easy as possible to get this model running.

If you want to make this model as simple as possible, the lights are not necessary and can leave them out if you so wish.

See Pics: AS04 Main Wiring Diagram and AS04 Lights Wiring Diagram

I have made a diagram that shows where all the components are located on the model, however, there are no specific locations for the PCB components (ESC, Receiver, PWM switches and PWM signal reverser). As there are a lot of different designs and types for boards depending on the brands you use, so I have avoided putting brackets/clips into this model and opted for as much flat surfaces as possible. This was not only to simplify the model but also to allow options for various setups and brands. All of boards are to be mounted using double sided M3 tape and can be placed anywhere that best suited for you. Before plugging anything in or cutting/shortening any wires, have a play about with positions and see what works best for you.

See Pic: AS04 Electrical Component Locations

AS04 Lights

The Lights definitely add a big fun factor but if soldering and making up wiring looms are not your thing, they are not necessary for the running of the model if you don’t want them.

For best affect I have used 4 x 3mm clear white LEDs in the front which make fantastic headlights with 2 x 3mm red LEDs for the tail lights and 4 x 3mm red LEDs for the brake lights. For the rear lights you can make up any combination of rear lights you like in the 6 spaces (3 each side) available. If you can have them all brake lights or all tail lights, just add them to which ever wiring loom you want them on.

There are three looms to make up; Front Lights, Rear Lights and the Brake Lights.

See Pic: AS04 Lights A

AS04 Front Lights

The front lights consist of 4 LEDs. Each one will need a 27Ω resistor (if using white LEDs) or a smaller one that is close enough. The resistors can go on the positive side or and negative side but it must be before the LED and resistor are connected to anything else.

The model has been designed so that looms can be fitted after being made up so soldering the looms can be made as easy as possible.

I advise connecting two LEDs on each side first before connecting them together just before they go through the bulkhead. For the final wires that go through the bulk head and into the Main Chassis compartment. Make sure you make them long enough with extra to route to where the PWM Switch will be placed.

On the Front Subframe, the holes going into the light unit on each side have been made large enough to fit the LEDs (one at a time).

Wholes where the LEDs are mounted into need to be a snug push fit. If you find they are a little too small, you can use a 3mm drill bits to open them up a bit. If you find they a too loose though, you can also use a bit of hot glue to hold them in (super glue works to but if you need to replace them at a later date, it won’t be possible to remove them).

Once the LEDs are in place, feed the loom though the centre hole in the front bulkhead into the Main Chassis bay and then between ton steering bar and battery bay and though the support loop on top to the battery compartment to prevent it from snagging on any of the moving parts. Leave the tail for no as you will want to join it with the Rear Lights later.

See Pics: AS04 Front Lights A, B, C, D, E F and G

AS04 Rear Lights

If you haven’t already, remove the Rear Subframe to aid installing the rear lights and loom. There are two circuits running to the rear. The rear running lights (also mentioned as just rear lights in this guide) and the brake lights. I highly recommend using different colours for the wires running to the rear. Once the loom is routed into the chassis, it may become difficult to distinguish what each wire is for. For the example in this guide, I have used white (positive) and yellow (negative) for the Rear Lights and green (positive) and Blue (negative) for the Brake Lights.

You can set the lights up in any order you like and how many you have for the rear and brakes. In this example I have it set up with one rear running light in the centre and two brake lights, one on either side of the rear light.

Each LED will need a 75Ω resistor (if using red LEDs). As space is tight, I have soldered the resistors directly to the negative of each LED and then angled it down. I have also paired the brake light LEDs together before it routes down towards the EDF Pod. This way there are only 4 wires on each side to feed through to the Main Chassis Bay. Unlike the front loom, the rear looms will need to be made separate for each side as they will need to be routed down either side of the EDF Pod and into the Main Chassis Bay.

Feed the looms through the hole in the side next to the LED mounting holes and then down the lower hole that will lead to the loom bracket on the EDF Pod.

Before routing any further it is best to fit the LEDs to get the wire lengths right. As with the front lights, the rear LEDs are push fit so use a 3mm drill bit to enlarge the holes or use a bit of hot glue if they are too loose.

See Pics: AS04 Rear Lights A, B, C, D, E and AS04 Rear Light Cable Loom Routing

Now route the Looms on both sides though the first mounting bracket on the EDF just above the lower suspension arm and then through front mounting bracket on the EDF Pod.

Once routed in, carefully pull the looms though until the Rear Subframe can be reattached to the back of the EDF Pod. Refer to AS03 Step 9 for information on installing the Rear Subframe.

Now route the loom into the Main Chassis Bay via the holes below the air intake.

AS04 PWM On/Off Switches

The lights are operated using 2 PWM Switches. One for the running lights (front and rear lights) and one for the brake lights.

Once you have confirmed where you want to mount the PWM switches and exactly where you want to route the wires, cut them to the correct lengths (in this guide they are going to be placed on the servo plate). Link the brake lights from both sides and solder them on to one of the PWM switches positive and negative pads. Now do the same with the rear lights and the head lights on to the other PWM switch.

If you have a servo tester, now is a good time to plug the switches into the test and check all the lights on each one turn on when the servo tester is at least just over halfway (1500ms). If all is good, cover the PWM with some heat shrink and double side tap it into position.

See Pic: AS04 PWM Switches A, B and C

AS04 Y Splitter

To make the brake lights activate when the model is braking/reverse thrust, you will need to link it into the same channel as the ESC for the EDF (Throttle/Brake channel). The easiest way to do this is to use a Y Splitter so you can directly make two (or more) functions work at the same time without needing to program anything.

The simplest option is to buy an off the shelf one, but if you want to make your own, it is relatively easy.Take a spare female JR 3 pin plug (also known and Futaba or DuPont 2.54mm 3 pin plug) and cut the wire to the length you need. Then take a 2x3 PCB 2.54mm Header Pins and solder the wires on to the pins so you have 3 lines of 2 connected pins to make two ports to plug into. In the example for this guide, I have done this with 9 pins to create 3 ports but the principle is the same. Check nothing is shorting and then heat shrink and solder the connection.

See Pic: AS04 Y SPLITTER A

AS04 ESC and PWM Signal Reverser

To make the brake lights activate when you are braking/reverse thrusting, you will need the signal going to the PWM switch reversed. This can easily be accomplished using a PWM signal reverser. This way the switch will now activate when below 1500ms and lights now come on when braking.

Simply use double-sided tape and place the ESC and PWM Signal reverser in the location best suited for you.

On the ESC, make sure the power cable/plug can reach the battery plug and the motor power cables can reach the EDF and make sure the polarities are correct.

On the PWM signal reverser, plug the PWM switch in and then plug it into the Y splitter along with the receiver/UBEC plug on the ESC.

See Pics: AS04 ESC & PWM S-REVERSER A and B

AS04 Receiver

In the guid I am using a Flysky FS-2A receiver. Most receivers work in a similar way with a similar channel map. However, they do very slightly so always consult the user manual for the make and model of receivers you are using to make sure it is set up correct.

Plug the ESC/PWM Switch into the channel you want to use to control the throttle and the steering servo into the channel you want to use for steering. The PWM switch for lights can be plugged into ant spare channel you like. If you are using a programable radio (such as the Flysky FS-i6X used in the tutorial) you can assign one of the aux switches to it later.

See Pics: AS04 Receiver A and AS04 Mode 2 Channel map

AS04 Setup

The radio doesn’t need much setting up as this model uses the standard controls. This section is to cover assigning an AUX switch to control the lights if you want it. As mentioned, in this guide I am using a Flysky FS-i6X transmitter with a FS-2A 4 channel receiver. If you are using a different model or brand, please consult your user manual.

If you move the stick with the channel you have linked the On/Off switch for the lights, you should find they turn on (if they are already on press the trim button down (or to the left) until they turn off. If you are happy with this then you don’t need to do anything else. However, if you would like to use one of the switches on the top to controller to do this as well (means you don’t need to keep pressing the stick to keep them on), then you’ll want to assign a switch and mix it with the channel the lights are on.

First choose the switch you want to use. in my case, I want to use SWA switch.

Go into ‘Functions setup’, select ‘AUX, Channels’, select ‘Channel 5’ and scroll to select the switch you want to use (SWA in my case). Press and hold Cancel to save.

See Pic: AS04 Setup – AUX Chennel Selection

Now go into the Mixing option (Functions setup – AUX Channels) and scroll to ‘Mix #1’ (Mix 3 in my case). Scroll to select Mix is ‘On’, Master to ‘Ch5’, Slave to ‘Ch4’ (or to the channel your lights are on) and can leave the Pos Mix and Neg Mix as they are. Press and hold Cancel to save.

See Pic: AS04 Setup – Mixing

AS04 Electronics Complete

Your model is now electronically setup and ready for a test drive. Plug the battery in and turn it on and check all the functions like steering, forward and rear thrust, brake lights and running lights all work correctly.

See Pics: AS04 Complete, AS04 Complete A and B

AS05 Bodywork

The last assembly is to add the body work panels!

See Pic: AS05 Parts List

AS05 STEP 1A

Installing the Front Shell. This has been split into 2 steps and make it easy to see where the 6 screws go in.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 1A

Before attaching to the model, insert the 4x2mm magnet into place. Make sure it sits flush with the body. You can use a drop of super glue if needed to secure it in place.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 1A A and 1A B

Now line the Front Shell up on the Front Subframe and insert a M1.7x6mm self-tapping screw into each hole in the head lights and one that goes in the centre-front on the underside.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 1A C and 1A D

AS05 STEP 1B

Now insert M1.7x6mm self-tapping screws on the tabs that go into the front Main Chassis Bay and one that goes in the centre just Infront of the magnet.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 1B, 1B A, 1B B and 1B C

AS05 STEP 2

Install the Inlet Panels.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 2

Feed the 2 prongs at the front into the slots on the Front Shell. Then secure the back of the panels down using a M1.7x6mm self-tapping screw.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 2 A, 2 B and 2 C

AS05 STEP 3A

Installing the Intake Cowling.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 3A

Install the two 4x2mm magnets into the Intake Cowling. Use a small drop of super glue if needed to secure them into place.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 3A A

Now insert a M1.7x6mm self-tapping screw in the centre mounting hole in the Main Chassis Bay.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 3A B

AS05 STEP 3B

Insert 2 x M2x8mm Bolts that go in on either side of the EDF Pod.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 3B and AS05 STEP 3B A

AS05 STEP 4

Mounting the Rear Wing Blanks (or Rear Wing). The model has been designed to easily accommodate future upgrades. One of those are rear wing options! For now there are blanks to cover the mounting holes.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 4

Use 3 x M1.7mm self-tapping screws on each side to secure the blanks.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 4 A, B and C

AS05 STEP 5A

Fitting the Rear Quarter Panels is easy but has been broken down into 4 steps just to make it clear.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 5A

Slide the Rear Quarter Pannels on.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 5A A, 5A B and 5A C

AS05 STEP 5B

Insert the top two M1.7x6mm self-taping screws for each side.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 5B and 5B A

AS05 STEP 5C

Insert the rear two M1.7x6mm self-taping screws for each side

See Pic: AS05 STEP 5C and 5C A

AS05 STEP 5D

Now insert the last M1.7x6mm self-taping screw on the underside.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 5D and 5D A

AS05 STEP 6

Add the magnets to the Canopy.

See Pic: AS05 STEP 6

Insert three 4x2mm magnets into the recess in the canopy. Made to you check the polarities are the correct way round before adding a drop of super glue to secure them.

See Pic: AS06 STEP 6 A

AS05 STEP 7

The Canopy should now simply clip on with the magnets.

See Pics: AS05 STEP 7 and 7 A

AS05 STEP 8

Your FBRC EDF30 Slipstream is now complete!

See Pics: AS05 STEP 8 and AS05 STEP 8 A

FBRC EDF30 Slipstream R and D

Hope you enjoyed making your EDF30 Slipstream. This is my biggest project yet and a lot of time and effort not only went into designing the model but making it so every part fits and can be replaced in a repeatable fashion with little to no modifications needed along with all the supporting documentation to make the assembly and getting your model running as easy as possible.

Many of the parts have been prototyped, tested, modified and reprinted until they fit perfect with very little to no post processing so parts could be fitted straight off the print bed.

See Pic: R&D 1 and R&D 2

EDF Testing

Part of the drive to make this project was to have fun designing my own brushed EDF and improving on it. I have made a test stand so I can test out different setups and fan options easily. So far, I have got 35g out of it, which is just enough to use in this model. I am hoping future test will help me improve on this figure and get more performance out of the customer EDF option. If you want to do your own R&D work on this EDF, I have included the test stand in the files so you can get experimenting easily.

See Pic: EDF Testing

Wind tunnel testing

Although this model is a bit too small and probably won’t go fast enough for true aerodynamics to take any real effect, it was fun to experiment with it and interesting to see how the model fairs in a wind tunnel environment.

See Pics: Wind Tunnel 1, 2 and 3

Future Proofed

I have many plans and ideas for the future of this model. As such I have tried to future proof this model as much as possible by making provisions like mounts so upgrades and mods can be bolted straight on and I have made the model as modular as possible so parts can also be swapped out easily if needed.

Here are some of the ideas in the pipeline:

Rear wing options

Mounts have been incorporated into the model so when some rear wing options become available (or even design one yourself!), these can simply be bolted straight on.

FPV

FPV driving is extremely fun and I love to add a camera to any model I possibly can. This model is no exception. A mount has been added above the battery compartment so a future FPV camera mount bracket can be added at a later date.

EDF options

The custom EDF is a whole project of its own. Although the custom EDF does move the model, there is a lot of room for improvement. I am hoping to use this model as a test bed to try new fan and thrust tube designs/setups and different motors

There is currently an option for an off the shelf brushed EDF. I am hoping to add more EDF pods that can take different designed and possibly larger sizes.

I am also hoping to make a brushless version in the future to get even more performance out of the model.

Brakes

Currently this model only uses reverse thrust to slow the model down. Although it does work, admittedly it does leave a lot to be desired when it comes to stopping this model. Most RC cars (especially of this size) use the motor to slowdown/brake. The issue with EDF powered vehicles that that there is no drive train to the wheels and so using the motor to brake is not an option. Most models will have a separate system to carry out the braking, however, on a model this size it space is an issue so standard systems, usually mechanical (dice brakes for example) are too big and bulky to be practicable to work reliably on such a small model.

Some ideas are in the pipeline and being tested such as electromagnet brakes. Once a reliable and efficient system has been worked out, I will update this model with a retrofit kit.