Garden Kitchen Unit With Yakisugi Worktop and Tools- Made From Discarded Shed Shelves and Scrap Wood

Welcome to my Instructable building an outdoor kitchen unit from various trash/waste/leftovers

I don't expect you'll be able to build exactly the same thing (unless you have the same scrap as me) but I will show you the process I used to turn some old potting shed shelves and scrap wood into a really useful garden kitchen unit including cleaning and preserving galvanized metal, creating a worktop from scrap wood and using the Japanese Yakisugi wood burning technique to preserve and weatherproof it.

I was fed up with balancing various BBQ and Smoker tools and ingredients on ledges, chairs and ultimately the ground, I set out to build a garden kitchen unit. You can pick these up online or at your local DIY or garden store, but all the ones I looked at were either very expensive or poor quality.

So I set out to build one and with a trash to treasure challenge wanted to build it entirely from stuff I already had and don't use. The only things used to build this that we're brand new were some screws for the shelves and the glue and oil (which I had), everything else is re-used or up-cycled.

The unit needs to be:

1. Sturdy - it'll need to hold plates, bottles, jars and be knocked about in a hurry as I burn food.
2. Clean - It needs to be clean and have a solid worktop that I can sanitise and am confident using with food.
3. Portable - To move between my BBQ, Smoker and outdoor stove (yes they are all in different places in the garden, Doh!)
4. Weather proof - I'm usually quite good at tidying up after myself and putting things away, but it will be left outside on occasion and subject to the elements.

So with this in mind I set out to build one starting with a rickety set of shelves my son left behind in one of his many moves.

This took over two weeks to finish as there is a lot of waiting time, have patience...

The Trash I used in the Instructable:

1. Old Galvanised Potting Shelves
2. Scrap wood
3. Old kitchen utensils
4. Metal Drinking straw
5. Hooks from an old mug tree and key hanger

Consumables

1. Wood Glue - ECO exterior grade
2. Tung Oil - The best ever wood oil, vegan friendly and 100% natural, more on this later
3. Limonene - an environmentally freindly alternative to white spirit or thinners
4. White Vinegar

Tools

1. Wood plane - (Electric saves your arms)
2. Saw - (Table saw saves your arms)
3. Orbital Sander (To save your arms)
4. Gas torch - Cheap and available all over, the type that connects to a can of propane or butane

Safety

1. Filter Face mask
2. Fire Extinguisher & bucket of water & water hose at the ready.
3. Gloves

The shelves were in poor condition, very dirty, would not stand up without being propped against something and even had spray paint randomly over parts.

Taking it apart was very easy, the screws used to build it had loosened lots during its life of moving around locations so they barely held it.

The actual galvanization was in good condition, with the exception of the paint, there were no rust spots but some light staining and tons of dirt.

Galvanized steel is made from dipping steel into a Zinc bath at high temperatures to coat and protect it from oxidization, the zinc acts as a sacrificial layer. So when cleaning and prepping the shelves its important to maintain the coating and not to damage it, gentle but strong cleaning is required.

So first, a good wash with soap and water using a plastic washing up brush, also relocating the spiders that had made it home.

After washing I set about removing the staining and paint. You can buy steel/zinc cleaners but they are expensive and really not required as they do the same job as vinegar and water.

Using white vinegar (any will do but white is the cheapest), let it down to 50/50 with water, the using a kitchen scouring pad begin to clean. Do not try to speed this up using wire wool or scrapers, you'll damage the zinc coating a ruin the weatherproofing.

You can however speed it up using a mini sander with a scourer attachment. You can see from the pictures how well it comes up, I was also lucky it was a sunny day to help dry it out.

Once cleaned, I didn't put it back together yet...

The top of the shelving unit is clean but I wanted to have something not only prettier but also more hygienic and be able to use as a work surface.

I visited my wood pile (yes we all have one), I'd recently taken down two old sheds and a lot of the wood, mainly from the inside, still has plenty of life and as it was from inside had not been treated. I selected some strips about 15mm x 30mm and cut them a little longer than the steel top.

I really wanted to build something more like a butchers block to go on top but did not have wood thick enough or long enough (check out the end pictures for one I made that was too small)

I ran the strips through my planer lightly to take of dirt and rough fibres, I also had to run a couple through my table saw to get a straight edge.

Next I glued them together into the shape for my work top.

I use ECO wood glue for these type of projects, it has less VOC content which, although it'll be internal, it's still being used for a food surface. Its more expensive than "regular" wood glue but worth it. Its performance is the same I find.

Using clamps and struts I got it as flat as possible and left it to dry for 48 hours.

After releasing the worktop from the clamps it had turned out well with minimal gaps and was pretty solid, it’s worth waiting for the glue to fully cure.

I ran it through my wood planer to level it off on both sides, this can be done by hand but will take a little longer. I then measured it against the shelf I'm going to attach it to and cut it to the exact same size, save the off cuts.

I then ran over it, again both sides with an orbital sander using 60 grit paper.

As the work top is quite shallow as this stage it’s easy for it to warp, especially applying liquid tung oil and limonene.

I took the top shelf from the unit, flipped it over and drilled numerous holes though and into the wood, making sure to get close to the edges and corners as well as some securing ones in the middle. I used a bit of masking tape to hold it in position as I drilled through the steel into the wood to make sure they were all lined up.

Although we're adding holes to the galvanization this will be the underside and protected.

I added screws across all the holes, starting in one corner and working around to make sure it sat level on the steel.

Now for the fun part.

To seal and preserve the wood I'm using the Yakisugi or shō sugi ban Japanese technique. This is a way of sealing and protecting wood against the elements, rot and insects by burning the outer surface of the wood to create a carbonized layer that is then sealed or treated with oil. I could write an entire Instructable just about this technique but right now I'll just show you how I did this one, You can find out more about Yakisugi here.

In a clear area, outside and away from anything combustible set up your worktop on solid surface that may get scorched.

SAFETY: I cannot stress this point enough, when burning the surface of wood for this method it gets hot, flames flicker and often catch hold where you don't want them too. Make sure you have:

1. A fire extinguisher
2. A bucket of water
3. A water hose on and ready.

Now using a propane or butane torch start to scorch the top of the work surface. Don't rush this but for the first pass we're looking to colour the wood only. Don't forget the edges too.

Now go over it again but slower this time, you want the surface of the wood to "alligator", getting the burn to look like the skin of the reptile. This takes some time and you can often find it may ignite around knots or edges, this is why you need the hose, water it to stop the reaction anytime you think it may go too far, don't worry about the wood becoming wet, the torch will dry it out again.

Finally hose it all over and allow it to cool (ensuring there is no smoldering going on)

Once it’s dry and cool we're going to take off the layer of burnt wood and soot. Use a wire brush, along the grain, and vigorously scrape off the top layer of soot, using a soft brush and cloth as you go to check for an even finish.

Wear a face mask here the soot is very fine and billows up, you don't want to inhale it.

After cleaning it off, hose it down again to allow the dust carbonized particles to sink into the wood.

Now for the first cure or coating using Tung Oil and Limonene.

Tung Oil is a natural oil derived from tung tree seeds, its 100% natural and vegan friendly. It dries naturally and once cured creates a hard wearing waterproof coat, and has a lovely finish. It's often used for worktops and butchers blocks as it’s non toxic and food safe when dry.

Limonene is a natural biodegradable alternative to solvents like turpentine or white spirit. It’s derived from citrus peelings and has a pleasant odour, especially compared to normal solvents. It’s food safe too, so I am happier using this for cooking surfaces.

Mix the Tung oil and Limonene 50/50 and rub over the worktop, then with about 160/180 grit sand paper smooth the worktop again with the sander. By mixing the Tung Oil with a natural solvent it allows it to get deeper in to the wood structure , by using the sander at the same time the wood dust mixes with the tung oil and helps seal the pores or small gaps.

Leave it to dry for 24 hours then VERY lightly sand the surface by hand with 240 grit sand paper, this is only to gently rough the surface.

Now back to Tung Oil and Limonene, using the same mix, coat the worktop with a generous amount all over, leave it for 30 minutes then use a cloth to remove any oil mix sitting on the surface.

Now, welcome to ground hog day:

With neat Tung oil use a soft brush to apply a generous coating, leave for 30 minutes then use a cloth to remove any excess. Leave to dry for 24 hours.

1. Next using neat Tung oil use a soft brush to apply a generous coating, leave for 30 minutes then use a cloth to remove any excess. Leave to dry for 24 hours.
2. Next using neat Tung oil use a soft brush to apply a generous coating, leave for 30 minutes then use a cloth to remove any excess. Leave to dry for 24 hours.
3. Next using neat Tung oil use a soft brush to apply a generous coating, leave for 30 minutes then use a cloth to remove any excess. Leave to dry for 24 hours.
4. .............

You get the idea...... I did this seven times, for the final one I left it 48 hours before moving on, although I did complete the wheels and utensils whilst waiting.

Quite straight forward, I put it back together, this time with the Worktop attached.

As the shelves were rickety and the screws held no purchase I replaced them with wider self tapping screws, these were actually hard to drive through, which is good.

Working around clockwise I screwed them in and tightened working around to get it so it stood perfectly level.

I only had black self tapping screws but think they look really good.

As I want the unit to be portable I wanted to add some wheels. I decided only at one end so you can lift the other end and steer it around but it won't roll away. The shelves had two original feet on it so I cleaned and kept these.

From my log pile I took a log big enough to make wheels and sawed off two rounds. I then screwed them together, marked out a circle, making sure the centre met the centre of the log, and used a scroll saw to cut them into the wheels. I then used a sander to tweak them to the perfect round shape and separated them again. Rather than burning these I actually used some of the soot I'd swept up to "stain" them and then gave them a liberal coat of wood glue to give them waterproofing and let them dry. I was pleased how they turned out.

To create an axle for the wheels I used a reusable drinking straw (When I purchased these they came in a pack of ten, I don't drink that much) 10mm width. I drilled a hole in the steel (as this is under the bottom shelf it should be protected) and halfway into the wheels, then glued and clamped them in place to dry.

They're very solid and as they are quite wide give a good stable motion when wheeled over rough garden ground.

I wanted to add tool holders and hooks so I took the off cuts from the worktop and treated these in the same way as the top itself, although you need to burn it less or they would disappear. I cut them to size and made a tool rack at each side and a guard rail for the bottom shelf to hold jars or bottles, the tool rack also created a handle when moving it on the wheels. For hooks I took these from an old mug tree and a defunct key hanger, so on one side there are round hooks and the other straight ones.

For utensils I visited our overcrowded pot of spoons etc in the kitchen and selected a spoon and spatula that have been through the dishwasher too many times. I scorched these lightly, not the full burn, to give them colour and treated them directly with neat Tung oil. The spurtle is one I made with my scroll saw and a wood off cut.

Although they are perfectly usable they're really for decoration and I think add a nice touch.

I'm really pleased with the result, it’s been outside now for a couple of weeks and has been rained on and still looks great.

Here’s a few pictures of it in the wild being used. The outdoor stove burner I have I built a box/cover for in the same way as the worktop to keep the style, this was made from an old garden trellis and a wind guard from a garden incinerator.

Also as a final hoorah, there is a picture of the butcher block I made from other scrap wood, unfortunately I could not get pieces big enough for the kitchen unit. Its also made using Yakisugi but sanded down a lot finer and lighter as it's going to be used indoors.

I hope you enjoyed this and found parts or all of it useful or interesting.