Handmade 3-Tier Concrete Water Fountain From Concrete

I wanted to make a fountain for my garden, but instead of buying a ready-made one, I decided to build the entire structure myself using cement.

The idea was simple: make several bowl-shaped cement sections, stack them vertically, create a hidden water path through the centre, and use a small pump to continuously circulate the water.

The result is a three-tier garden fountain with water flowing from the top bowl down through the lower levels and finally returning to the pump.

It took several stages of moulding, curing, assembling and adjusting to get everything working properly, but the final fountain became much more than I initially imagined.

For the cement structure

1. Cement
2. Fine sand
3. Water
4. Suitable containers/bowls for making moulds
5. Plastic bottles/containers for creating openings and central passages
6. Wire or thin metal pieces for reinforcement/support
7. PVC pipe or another suitable tube for the central water passage
8. Release oil or another mould-release material

For the fountain mechanism

1. Small submersible water pump
2. Flexible water tubing
3. Electrical wire
4. Suitable power supply for the pump
5. Waterproof electrical connections
6. For finishing
7. Sandpaper
8. Cement/concrete mix for filling gaps
9. Waterproofing/sealer suitable for cement fountains
10. Paint, if desired
11. Decorative stones

Tools

1. Mixing container
2. Trowel
3. Bucket
4. Pliers
5. Cutter
6. Screwdriver
7. Sandpaper
8. Measuring container
9. Drill or suitable tool for making openings
10. Gloves

Before making anything, I decided how the water would travel through the fountain.

The basic arrangement was:

Bottom reservoir → pump → central tube → top bowl → middle bowl → bottom bowl → reservoir

I also planned the position of the central column so that the bowls would remain reasonably aligned when stacked.

This planning is important because once the cement pieces are cured, making major changes becomes much harder.

I mixed cement and fine sand and gradually added water until I got a thick, workable mixture. I did not make the mixture excessively watery because a stiff mixture was easier to apply to the moulds and helped the pieces retain their shape. For small decorative pieces, I used a finer mix so that the surface would be easier to smooth later.

Tip: Add water gradually. It is much easier to add a little more water than to correct a mix that has become too wet.

For each fountain bowl, I used containers of different sizes to create the curved shape. I first applied a thin release layer to the mould surfaces. Then I placed the cement mixture around the mould and built up the required thickness. The important part was keeping the cement reasonably even around the bowl. I also created the required openings for the central structure and water passage while the cement was still workable.

After making the individual pieces, I left them undisturbed until the cement had hardened sufficiently.

I then carefully removed the moulds.

After removing the moulds, I inspected every piece for:

Cracks

Large holes

Uneven edges

Weak areas

Excess cement

I used fresh cement mix to repair larger imperfections and smoothed the edges where necessary.

The base had to support the entire fountain, so I made it wider and heavier than the upper sections.

I positioned the central column in the middle and secured it with cement.

The base also forms the lowest water-collecting section of the fountain.

I checked that the column was vertical before the cement completely hardened.

Tip: Check the alignment from several directions. A small tilt at the bottom becomes very noticeable when three bowls are stacked above it.

The central column supports the different levels and also provides a route for the water tubing.

I used cylindrical containers/pipe sections to form the column.

I filled the mould with cement and allowed it to set before removing the mould.

The central opening was kept clear so that the tubing could later pass through it.

Once the base and central support were ready, I positioned the largest bowl above the base.

I made sure that the bowl was stable and centred around the column.

At this stage, I also planned the position of the tubing and electrical wires so they would remain as concealed as possible.

The middle bowl was placed above the lower section and supported by the central column.

I checked the alignment again before permanently securing the pieces.

The bowl needs to be positioned so that water spilling from it will fall into the lower bowl rather than outside the fountain.

This small adjustment makes a surprisingly large difference to how much water the fountain loses.

The smallest bowl forms the top of the fountain.

I positioned it above the other two levels and created the opening required for the water outlet.

The top section is where the water first emerges, so its height and position determine how the entire fountain looks when running.

I placed a small submersible pump in the bottom water reservoir.

The pump is connected to flexible tubing, which carries water upward through the central structure.

The tubing should be long enough to reach the top without being stretched or sharply bent.

The basic arrangement is:

WATER

↑

┌─────────┐

TOP

BOWL

└────┬────┘

↓

┌─────────┐

MIDDLE

BOWL

└────┬────┘

↓

┌─────────┐

BOTTOM

RESERVOIR

└────┬────┘

PUMP

│

back to TOP

I added smooth stones to the lower section.

Apart from making the fountain look more natural, the stones also help create a garden-like appearance and make the bottom reservoir less visually dominated by the pump and plumbing.

I connected the pump tubing to the outlet at the top. The outlet should be positioned approximately in the centre of the top bowl. I tested the pump before permanently hiding the tubing so I could adjust the water flow. A stronger pump does not necessarily make a better fountain. Too much flow can cause water to splash outside the bowls.

After confirming that the water was travelling correctly, I secured the tubing and electrical wiring inside the central structure as much as possible.

Important: Keep electrical connections protected from water and use equipment appropriate for outdoor/wet locations.

After assembly, I filled visible gaps and rough joints with cement.

I also worked on the edges of the bowls to make them more consistent.

I did not try to remove every tiny imperfection. Some of the texture gives the fountain its handmade character.

Finally, I filled the bottom reservoir with water and switched on the pump.

The water travelled upward through the central tube and emerged from the top.

It then flowed over the edges of the upper bowl into the middle bowl, continued into the bottom section and finally returned to the pump.

I adjusted the pump flow until the water stayed within the fountain.

And that was the moment the separate cement pieces finally became a working fountain.