Improving Cheap Soldering Iron!

Tired of the constant wear and tear on the soldering iron housing, I decided to look for a better solution (the parts aren't available in my country; you have to buy a new one. And, frankly, they don't last very long anyway, at least not for the use I give it).

While looking in the workshop of an old man I know, I found a mild steel pipe that was roughly the right size, so I decided to use it for this project and got to work.

It's been almost a year now, and aside from a little rust, it's still doing its job perfectly.

Before we begin, a clarification: I don't use imperial measurements; I use the metric system. The measurements expressed in inches are for the standard.

That's all for now; let's get started. It's quite simple.

-Tools:

1. Drill
2. Angle grinder
3. Pipe Tubing Cutter
4. Flaring tool
5. Caliper
6. Hammer (little mass)
7. Metal cutoff wheel (as worn as possible)
8. Drill bit (1/4")
9. Rag (any piece of cloth)
10. Bench vise clamp press

-Materials:

1. Mild steel pipe 5/16"
2. Copper pipe 1/4" (for the Step 6: Bonus)

We took the mild steel pipe, measured 44mm and cut it using the Pipe tubing cutter.

The cut pipe is wrapped with the rag (leave the bottom free so the drill bit doesn't get stuck, one end goes upwards, as seen in the picture) and placed in the Bench vise clamp press, taking care not to apply too much force and bend the pipe.

With the drill bit mounted in the drill, proceed to clean from top to bottom (as shown in the video), ensuring the pipe is clean and free of shavings. The drill bit should pass through smoothly, without getting stuck.

We place the pipe in the flaring tool (so that it is flush) and make sure that it is well expanded.

We pass the drill bit through the pipe (the shank of the drill bit through the expanded end, as seen in the first image), leaving ~1 mm at the other end (see second image).

We place the pipe with the drill bit in the bench vise clamp press (without overtightening) and, using the hammer, tap around the pipe towards the center to create a sort of burr (this will prevent the soldering iron tips from slipping out, see last image).

I'd like to add that I've seen many soldering irons that don't have the grooves; I personally made them because mine originally had them.

With the pipe and the rag placed horizontally in the bench vise clamp press (the drill bit is optional, I use it for convenience but it will leave marks, however, it does not affect its functionality) we start making the grooves using the cutting disc and the angle grinder, very carefully and slowly.

After completing the grooves (in my case I made 4) you can clean the pipe with the drill bit as in Step 2, but be careful not to damage the grip.

At this point the housing is ready, however, I want to add a few extras.

We measure the heating element; for me, it's 24mm.

To that measurement, we add the desired size for the tip. I chose 7mm, so I cut the pipe to 31mm.

There are several ways to clean copper pipes; you can use a blade, but I used a drill bit that fit.

I apologize for the lack of photos; I didn't take pictures of the cleaning process or the drill bit's length. However, it's not a major inconvenience.

Using the bench vise clamp press, we flatten the tip (the 7 mm I need), using as much force as possible.

It is tested to see that the element fits without problems.

If it doesn't fit properly (see last image), you can use a drill bit, being careful not to damage the pipe, remembering that copper is quite soft.

NEVER TIGHTEN THE COPPER PIPE WITH THE SOLDERING IRON ATTACHED; YOU COULD DAMAGE THE HEATING ELEMENT. THE IMAGES SHOW THAT THE SOLDERING IRON IS ONLY USED FOR CHECKING AND ONCE THE TIP IS TIGHTENED.

Once the tip is flattened, it won't be able to pass through the housing, so we end up sanding and reducing it as needed.

The second image shows what we can use: an angle grinder (the most aggressive method), sandpaper, or a file (the slowest method).

You can use a combination of all three: the angle grinder to reduce the tip until it fits through the housing, the file to shape it, and the sandpaper to polish it.

I've used all three methods together and separately. It all depends on the type of tip you need.

The first image shows the housing and the tip I made.

The second image shows that it works perfectly with commercially available tips (I borrowed that one for the photo; I haven't bought any in a while).

I wanted to make the housing out of stainless steel, but I couldn't manage it. However, I'm happy with what I did manage to make.

For those thinking, "You can buy the tips", yes, but it's cheaper for me to buy a meter of copper tubing ($3.46, free shipping) than two tips ($4). I can do more than 30 with one meter.

This is my first Instructable so I apologize if I skipped anything, I hope this is helpful or inspires someone who wants to improve their soldering iron, just as necessity inspired me.