What You’re Making In this project, you’ll create a soft infinity cube made from eight 5×5×5 cm foam blocks, each wrapped in fabric. The blocks are connected with flexible fabric hinges that let the cube flip and fold in a smooth, continuous loop. Because the materials are soft and lightweight, the cube feels comfortable in your hands and makes no noise while you use it.

Optional Feature: Adding a Small Bell If you’d like your cube to have a bit of playful sound, you can place a small craft bell inside one of the foam blocks before wrapping it in fabric. The bell adds a gentle jingle when the cube moves — subtle enough to stay calming, but fun for people who enjoy a bit of auditory feedback. This step is completely optional, and the cube works perfectly without it.

Why It’s Useful This infinity cube works as a gentle, calming fidget tool. The repetitive folding motion can help reduce restlessness and improve focus, especially for people with ADHD or autism‑related sensory needs. It’s quiet, soft, and satisfying to play with — perfect for moments when you need something to keep your hands busy or your mind grounded.

Before you start building your infinity cube, gather all the materials and tools you’ll need. The project uses simple supplies, and most of them are easy to find in craft stores or online. If you already made a cube before, you’ll recognize these items — feel free to adjust colors, fabrics, or tools to match your own style.

Materials

1. 8 foam cubes (5×5×5 cm) These form the core of your infinity cube. Soft foam works best because it’s lightweight, quiet, and comfortable to hold.
2. Fabric of your choice Cotton, canvas, denim, or any non‑stretch fabric works well. You’ll use it to wrap each foam cube and to create the flexible fabric hinges.
3. Fabric strips for hinges These can be cut from the same fabric or a contrasting color. They should be strong enough to act as hinges but still flexible.
4. Strong sewing thread This is the thread you’ll use to stitch the cubes together and attach the hinge strips. Choose a durable thread that won’t snap under tension.
5. Fine hand‑sewing thread (for fixing folded edges) This lighter thread is perfect for securing folded fabric edges neatly.
6. Optional: small craft bell If you want your cube to make a soft jingle, you can place a tiny bell inside one of the foam cubes before wrapping it.
7. Iron‑on interfacing (optional, for reinforcing thin fabric) If your fabric is too thin or stretchy, you can add a layer of iron‑on interfacing to make it firmer. This helps the cube keep its shape and makes the hinges more durable.

Tools

1. Fabric scissors For cutting clean, straight edges.
2. Sewing needle You’ll use this for hand‑stitching the fabric around the foam cubes and attaching the hinge strips.
3. Pins or clips Helpful for holding the fabric in place while wrapping or stitching.
4. Ruler or measuring tape To measure fabric pieces accurately.
5. Fabric marker or chalk For marking cutting lines on your fabric.

3D‑printed measuring templates (optional but very helpful) I used four printed templates to measure and cut the fabric pieces precisely:

1. 7 × 12 cm
2. 7 × 7 cm
3. 5 × 10 cm
4. 5 × 5 cm These templates make it easy to cut consistent fabric panels for wrapping the foam cubes and creating the hinge strips. If you have access to a 3D printer, I highly recommend making them — they save a lot of time and keep everything perfectly aligned.

Cutting the Fabric Pieces

To wrap each foam cube neatly, you’ll need two different fabric sizes. The 7 × 12 cm pieces form the side panels of the cube and are also the hinge points. The 7 × 7 cm pieces cover the sides of each cube that doesn't fold. Each piece includes a 1 cm fold‑over edge, which helps the fabric sit smoothly around the foam.

Interfacing (optional)

If your fabric is thin or stretchy, you can reinforce it with iron‑on interfacing:

1. 5 × 10 cm interfacing for the 7 × 12 cm side panels
2. 5 × 5 cm interfacing for the 7 × 7 cm top/bottom panels

Make sure the interfacing is perfectly centered on the wrong side of the fabric before ironing. This keeps the fold‑over edges soft and easy to sew while giving the center area extra stability.

How Many Pieces You Need

For all eight foam cubes, you’ll need the following sets:

1. 2 sets of 4 pieces (7 × 12 cm) These are used for the long side panels and hinge areas.
2. 4 sets consisting of:
3. 2 pieces of 7 × 12 cm (side panels)
4. 4 pieces of 7 × 7 cm (top and bottom panels)

This gives you all the fabric pieces needed to wrap the eight cubes completely.

Using the 3D‑Printed Templates

To make cutting easier and more precise, I used four 3D‑printed measuring templates:

1. 7 × 12 cm
2. 7 × 7 cm
3. 5 × 10 cm
4. 5 × 5 cm

Place the template on your fabric, trace around it with fabric chalk, and cut along the lines. This ensures every piece is exactly the right size and keeps all cubes consistent.

I only forgot to make a picture of all the fabric pieces

Before you start wrapping the foam cubes, all fabric pieces need to be prepared. Each piece has a 1 cm fold‑over edge, and folding these edges now will make the wrapping process much easier and cleaner later on.

Folding the Edges

Take each fabric piece — both the 7 × 12 cm side panels and the 7 × 7 cm top/bottom panels — and fold the edges inward by 1 cm. This creates a clean, finished edge that won’t fray and will sit neatly against the foam.

Pinning the Folds

Use pins or small fabric clips to hold the folded edges in place. Make sure the folds are even and that the corners stay sharp. This step helps keep everything aligned when you start stitching.

Fixing the Folds with Thread

Once the edges are pinned, use your fine hand‑sewing thread to secure the folds. A simple running stitch or small whipstitch is enough — the goal is just to keep the edges in place so they don’t open while wrapping the cube.

1. Use fine thread for this step so the stitches stay subtle and don’t add bulk.
2. Keep your stitches close to the edge for a neat finish.
3. Make sure the fabric still bends easily — especially the 7 × 12 cm pieces, since these form the hinge points.

If You’re Using Interfacing

If you added iron‑on interfacing earlier, double‑check that it is still centered and that the folds wrap cleanly around it. The interfacing should never reach into the fold‑over area — that part must stay soft so the fabric can bend smoothly.

Now that all your fabric pieces are prepared, and the edges are folded and stitched, you can start assembling the first half of a cube. Each half consists of two long side panels and three pieces (short-long-short) that form the top, bottom, and middle section.

What You Need for One Half

For each half‑cube, gather the following pieces:

1. 2 long pieces (7 × 12 cm) — now reduced to 5 × 10 cm after folding These form the side walls and part of the hinge area.
2. 2 small pieces (7 × 7 cm → now 5 × 5 cm) These become the top and bottom of the half‑cube.
3. 1 medium piece (7 × 12 cm → now 5 × 10 cm) This is the center panel of the half‑cube.

All edges should already be folded, pinned, and fixed with fine thread from the previous step.

Choosing Your Stitch

I prefer to use the faston stitch, while others prefer a cross stitch. Both are perfectly fine — just choose the one you’re comfortable with. The goal here is strength and flexibility.

Laying Out the Pieces

Lay the pieces on your workspace in the following order:

1. Place the two long pieces on top of each other, aligned perfectly.
2. Next to them, lay out the three other pieces in this order:
3. 5 × 5 cm piece
4. 5 × 10 cm piece
5. 5 × 5 cm piece

This layout should look like a small strip of three panels next to a double‑layered long panel

Sewing the Panels Together

Start stitching the pieces together:

1. Sew the first 5 × 5 cm piece to the 5 × 10 cm piece.
2. Then sew the 5x10 piece to the 5x10 piece. (Note that this piece only is stitched half way)
3. Then sew the overhang to the other piece of the other 5x10 piece
4. Then sew the second 5 × 5 cm piece to the other side of the second 5 × 10 cm piece.

You now have a strip of five connected panels.

Next, repeat the same process with the remaining pieces from the set to create the second half of the cube.

In the previous step, you stitched the first set of fabric pieces together to form the inner strip of the cube half. Now we’re going to add the outer 5×10 cm pieces. These will become the outside walls of the cube and give it its final shape.

We’ll take this slowly and clearly.

1. Place the sewn strip on your workspace

Lay the strip you just made flat on the table.

1. The inside (the side with the visible stitches) should be facing up.
2. You should see the three connected pieces: 5×5 — 5×10 — 5×5, with the two long 5×10 pieces attached underneath on the sides.

This is exactly what your photos show.

2. Take the second set of four 5×10 pieces

These are the outer side panels.

1. They already have folded edges
2. They are the same size as the long pieces you used earlier
3. They will form the outside of the cube half

3. Place the new 5×10 pieces on top of the long panels

Now take one of the new 5×10 pieces and place it directly on top of the long 5×10 piece that is already attached to your strip.

1. Center it neatly
2. Make sure the edges line up
3. The folded edges should point inward

Do the same with the second, long panel.

4. Pin the pieces in place

Use pins or clips to hold the new 5×10 pieces where they belong.

1. Pin them in the middle first
2. Then check that all edges are aligned
3. The fabric should lie flat without pulling or wrinkling

5. Sew the new pieces to the 5×5 and 5×10 panels

Now you can stitch the new 5×10 pieces to the inner strip.

1. Sew along the edges where the new pieces meet the 5×5 and 5×10 panels

See foto's

6. Repeat the same steps for the second half

1. Place the fabric half with the inside facing up

Take one of the fabric halves you just assembled.

1. Lay it flat on your workspace
2. The inside (the side with the visible stitches) should be facing upward
3. The long 5×10 cm panels should be on the left and right sides an upward

See photo.

2. Prepare the three end pieces

For each half‑cube, you need:

1. Two 5×5 cm pieces (these will become the top and bottom ends)
2. One 5×10 cm piece (this becomes the center panel)

3. Position the pieces on the ends

Now place the pieces on the short ends of the fabric half:

1. Put a 5×5 cm piece on the left end
2. Put the 5×10 cm piece in the middle
3. Put the second 5×5 cm piece on the right end

Make sure:

1. The edges line up neatly
2. The folded edges are facing inward
3. The pieces sit centered on the ends of the long 5×10 panels

4. Pin the pieces in place

Use pins or clips to hold each piece where it belongs.

1. Pin the corners first
2. Then pin the sides
3. Make sure nothing shifts when you lift the fabric

This keeps everything stable while sewing.

5. Sew the pieces to the long panels

Now stitch the three pieces :

1. Sew the 5x5 pieces along the edges of the 5×5 and 5×10 pieces
2. And in the middle sew all 5x10 pieces on the edges together

6. Repeat for the second half

Do the exact same steps with the second fabric half.

When you’re done, you will have:

1. Two complete fabric “shells”
2. Each with closed ends
3. Each still open along the long sides

In this step, you will connect the two fabric halves so they can fold and move like a real infinity cube. We will do this slowly and clearly, because this is one of the trickiest parts of the whole project — even for people who sew often.

1. Place both cube halves on your workspace

Lay both fabric halves on the table.

1. The inside (the side with visible stitches) should be facing towards you
2. 
   

See photos

2. Add two 5×5 cm pieces to the middle

For each half, do this:

1. Take two 5×5 cm pieces
2. Place them in the middle
3. Center them neatly
4. Pin them in place
5. Sew them onto the standing edges

Do this for both halves before moving on.

3. Prepare one 5×10 cm hinge piece

Now take two 5×10 cm pieces. This pieces will connect the two halves together.

Important:

1. This pieces will stick out halfway from one cube half
2. The other half will be sewn onto the exposed part

This creates the flexible hinge between the two cubes halves.

4. Attach the 5×10 cm hinge piece to the outside edges of the first half

Choose one of the cube halves.

1. Place the 5×10 cm piece on the outer edge
2. Make sure half of the piece sticks out
3. Pin it in place
4. Sew it along the edges of the one side of the cube half
5. repeat this on the other side of the cube half

See photos

5. Connect the second cube half

Now take the other cube half and place it next to the first one.

1. Line up the exposed half of the 5×10 cm hinge piece
2. Match it to the corresponding outer edge of the second cube half
3. Pin it carefully
4. Sew it in place

You now have:

1. Two cube halves connected together
2. Ready to insert the foam blocks

This is the moment where the project starts to look like a real infinity cube.

You are now ready for the next step: inserting the foam blocks and closing the cub

If you want your infinity cube to make a gentle jingle, you can place a small bell inside one of the foam blocks. This step takes a little extra work, but the result is worth it.

1. Choose which foam cube will contain the bell

Pick one of the eight foam cubes.

1. This cube will become the “sound cube”
2. It will behave exactly like the others, but with a soft rattle inside

2. Draw a guideline on one side of the foam cube

Use a pen or marker to draw a straight line across one face of the cube.

This line helps you:

1. Re‑align the two halves perfectly later
2. Make sure the bell sits in the correct orientation inside the fabric pocket

This is a small detail, but it makes the final assembly much easier.

3. Cut the foam cube in half

Using a sharp knife or scissors:

1. Carefully cut the foam cube 90 degrees of the line you drew
2. Try to keep the cut as straight as possible, but you will get some uneven services
3. You should now have two matching halves

4. Hollow out the inside of both halves

To give the bell room to move (and make a better sound):

1. Use scissors, a knife, or your fingers to remove some foam from the inside of each half
2. Create a small hollow space in the center of each half
3. Make sure the bell can move freely without getting stuck

Tip: A bell that can roll or bounce slightly makes a much clearer and louder jingle.

5. Place the bell inside and close the foam cube

Now:

1. Put the bell inside one of the hollowed halves
2. Place the second half on top
3. Align the halves using the guideline you drew earlier
4. Press them together so the cube returns to its original shape

You now have a foam cube with a bell hidden inside.

6. Insert the bell‑cube into one of the fabric pockets

Take one of the fabric compartments you made earlier.

1. Slide the foam cube (with the bell inside) into the pocket
2. Make sure the cube sits flat, and the fabric is not twisted
3. The bell should move freely inside the foam

This cube will behave exactly like the others once the fabric is closed.

Now that all eight foam cubes are inside their fabric pockets (and one of them optionally contains a bell), it’s time to close the fabric shells. This step seals everything neatly and completes the structure of your infinity cube.

We’ll do this slowly and clearly.

1. Close the sides with two 5×10 cm pieces

1. Take two 5×10 cm fabric pieces
2. Place one on each end
3. Make sure the folded edges face inward
4. Pin them in place
5. Sew along the edges to close the openings

2. Close the center area with four 5×5 cm pieces

In the middle of the structure, you will see four small openings — one for each inner cube.

To close these:

1. Take four 5×5 cm pieces
2. Place each one over a center opening
3. Pin them carefully
4. Sew all four pieces in place

These panels keep the foam secure and give the cube a clean, finished look.

3. Remove all temporary fixing threads

Earlier in the project, you used fine thread to hold folded edges in place. Now that everything is sewn permanently:

1. Carefully remove all temporary stitches
2. Make sure no loose threads remain
3. Check that all seams are secure

This gives your cube a clean, professional finish.

Congratulations — you’ve made an infinity cube!

Your soft, fabric infinity cube is now complete.

1. It folds smoothly
2. It feels soft and comfortable
3. It’s quiet — unless you added the bell, in which case it has a gentle jingle
4. And most importantly: it’s handmade, durable, and uniquely yours

Enjoy your infinity cube! You’ve built something beautiful, clever, and calming.