Installing a Sidewalk Drain

Heavy rain was sending water down our sidewalk and toward the house, creating a drainage problem that needed a real solution. Rather than trying to redirect the water with landscaping or temporary fixes, I decided to cut into the existing concrete and install a channel drain.

In this project, I'll show you how I installed an NDS Slim Channel Drain directly next to an existing concrete sidewalk step and connected it to drainage pipe. The project involved adding a section of concrete, preparing the trench, securing the channel drain, tying everything together, and then re-pouring the concrete around it.

This is a pretty straightforward DIY project, but taking the time to plan the drainage path and get the drain properly supported and leveled makes a big difference in the finished result.

I'll walk through the entire process, including the tools and materials I used, how I prepared the concrete, how I installed the drain, and how I finished the concrete so the drain looks like it belongs there.

The finished drain gives the stormwater somewhere to go instead of allowing it to continue flowing toward the house.

Materials

1. NDS Slim Channel Drain
2. Channel drain end cap, if needed
3. Flex-Drain or similar drainage pipe
4. Concrete mix
5. Rebar
6. Gravel or suitable base material, as needed
7. Concrete finishing materials

Tools

1. Shovel
2. Hammer
3. Pry bar
4. Level
5. Tape measure
6. Basic hand tools

The exact tools you'll need will depend on the thickness and condition of your existing concrete and how you plan to connect the drain to your existing drainage system.

The first step was figuring out exactly where the water was coming from and where I wanted it to go.

During heavy rain, water was flowing down the sidewalk and toward the house. I wanted to intercept that water before it reached the area where it was causing problems.

I picked a location across the sidewalk where the channel drain could catch the water and then planned the drainage pipe so the water could be carried away from the house.

Before getting into the concrete, make sure you know where the drain is going and where the outlet will be. It's much easier to figure this out beforehand than after you've already poured a bunch of concrete.

I also measured the drain and marked out the section of concrete that needed to be added. The goal was to make the opening just large enough to install the drain while leaving enough existing concrete on either side to make a solid repair.

Next, I needed to create a simple frame to hold the new concrete in place while it cured.

I used some scrap pieces of wood I had on hand and cut them to the length I needed. I also cut them to the height of the new step so the finished concrete would come out at the correct level.

The existing sidewalk and step essentially formed one side of the project, so I only needed to build the form around the areas where I was adding concrete.

I secured the boards in place and checked the height and alignment as I went. The form doesn't have to be fancy — it just needs to be sturdy enough to hold the wet concrete in the shape you want until it sets.

Once the frame was in place, I had the basic shape of the new upper section and the step established, and I was ready to install the drain and prepare for the concrete pour.

Before pouring the new concrete, I wanted to make sure the new section was securely tied into the existing sidewalk.

I drilled two holes into the existing concrete underneath the new step and inserted pieces of rebar into those holes. I then bent the rebar up and into the new section of the sidewalk.

This gives the new concrete a mechanical connection to the existing sidewalk instead of having the two sections simply butt up against each other.

I positioned the rebar so it would be surrounded by the new concrete once everything was poured.

Last item in here is to dampen my concrete underneath so that it doesn't suck all of the moisture out of my newly poured concrete.

With the form and rebar ready, it was time to fill the new section with concrete.

Instead of mixing the concrete in a bucket or wheelbarrow first, I poured the dry concrete mix directly into the form. I then added water and mixed it right in place.

I worked in sections, adding more dry concrete, adding water, and mixing as I went until the entire form was filled.

I chose this method mainly because I didn't have a bucket or mixing tub handy, and for this particular project it was an easy way to get the concrete where I needed it without having to mix it somewhere else and move it.

As I worked, I made sure the concrete was mixed thoroughly and worked it around the rebar and into all of the corners of the form.

After letting the concrete dry for about a day, I was ready to remove the wooden form.

I used a hammer to carefully break the form apart and pull the boards away from the new concrete.

There were a few jagged edges and small pieces left behind, so I scraped those off and cleaned everything up to give the new step a smoother finished appearance.

For the next few days, I also kept the new concrete damp. Concrete continues to gain strength as it cures, and keeping it from drying out too quickly can help with that curing process.

Once everything was cleaned up and cured, the new step and channel drain were ready to do their job.

And that's it! I was able to solve the drainage problem without cutting out or removing the existing sidewalk. By building onto the existing step, adding some reinforcement, and installing the channel drain, I created a simple path for the water to get away from the house.

Hopefully this gives you an idea for an easy way to tackle a similar drainage problem around your own home.