Madeye Moody Motorized Eye 2 Axis With Hip Flask Controller

Firstly I want to make it clear that this is not a ready to go project. What i mean by that is that my files are NOT fully ready or perfectly calibrated. This is my first fully built, working, and painted version but its still a bit of a mess at parts. There are parts where im screwing into a spot with no screw hole or using a soldering wand to melt pieces together or melt a hole for a part or to expand a hole. Also, im not fully convinced that my vertical motion setup is the best and am working some other solutions.

This Project is intended to share what I have so far. I believe that to be the best route to progress. Please let me know any issues or concerns that you run into with any of this. Ill work to update my files and instructions as i clean things up and am always happy to hear criticisms or suggestions.

If those warnings didnt scare you off then hi! This is my proccess for building this current version of the Madeye Moody 2 axis motion eye patch with the hip flask case that has a cork joystick for manual motion! I am a bit unorganized and chaotic with this build as I am constantly busy and any work on it is spread out a couple minutes here and there across the past 4 months. Its not perfect but Im proud of what its turned into and how much Ive learned while doing it. I hope anyone who tries this gets to feel that joy as well. Thank you for yalls time!

3D print these files:

https://www.printables.com/model/1854750-druids-steampunk-wizard-potion-flask-hollow-joysti

https://www.printables.com/model/1854815-mad-eye-moody-motorized-eye-patch-2-axis

2 GH-S37D servos: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F2HDHDY6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Nano Board. I used a Nano Board ATmega328P 5V 16M Micro-Controller Board: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G99NNXL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

A 5v power supply or a DC-DC buck Converter stepdown module like the LM2596 which is what I used: https://a.co/d/00LQzeKe

A power distribution module like this one though this is just something connection the 5v connections all together and the grounds all together so not essential: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DL51PXZX?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

a Joystick module like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DH2G1PVP?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

a power switch like this rocker: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1MV462?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

20 AWG - 28 AWG wire. I use 22: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089CQHRDT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

9 volt battery connector: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DRZWH7M1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

compression springs. I pulled them from some old pens I had but you can get them here: https://a.co/d/0247FN5o

A roller buckle: https://a.co/d/0hNE5RcI

Strap. I used Faux Leather for mine: https://a.co/d/0bpqZcSg

Paint. For PLA, Acrylic paint tends to do best: https://a.co/d/00WRRWJ2

We want to start by 3d printing our project files first. There are pieces in total that need to be printed,

I printed mine Flask parts and the Eye and Gyro ring with white PLA+, and the eye patch base and back with Gold Silk PLA. Its been suggested that PTG might be good for the eyepatch and gyro ring so they are more rigid and dont warp as much under pressure. I have not tried that though.

This can be done at most any point, but its always nice to go ahead and get it out of they way beforeelectronics get placed.

Sanding is mostly important on the inside of the Eye patch, the Gyro ring, and the Eye. This helps create smooth more frictionless areas for easier motion.

You can also sand any other part for a smoother coat of paint. I did not sand any external part aside from the eye in my pics.

For painting the eye, i used a black circle first, then i made a smaller blue circle to give it a black outline, then i touched up the center with black again. the smoother the print the easier it is to paint.

The eye patch base I already printed in gold so i got brownish yellow watered down paint to give it a more used and tarnished look.

The flask I went for a base of dark brown with some lighter reddish brown highlights on edges and some yellow on the fauw clasp area. then i kept adding colors haphazardly here and there to create some movement in the color. I also chose to paint the center piece on the flask as an eye.

The cork got a brownish yellow color.

Im using a device comparable with an arduino Nano. Ive attached an arduino IDE file with my code.

Here is my Pinout for each part.

Horizontal servo

Signal → D10

5V → shared external 5V

GND → shared ground

Vertical servo

Signal → D9

5V → shared external 5V

GND → shared ground

Joystick board

GND → shared ground

5V → shared external 5V

VRX → A0

VRY → A1

SW → D2

All 5V lines connect to the power distribution module, including the arduinos own 5V pin. Same with ground.

The module has the power and ground connections coming to it from the buck converter. The + on the buck converter going to one leg of the toggle switch. the the red wire on the 9v battery connector going to the other leg on the toggle switch and the black cable going to the - on the buck converter.

there are probably better ways of doing this and im just too dumb to know those ways.

I placed all is this on a perf board and cut off the unsed parts of the board, but thats not really needed. that just helps keep it all together and somwhat organized.

I soldered most of this all together and taped up cables a bit. It can be a tight fit but reall there is plenty of room in there if its more organized than i did.

The cables for the servos i cut to 4 feet just incase a giant wants to use my eye, but you can measure the distance from your eye to your knee and cut that length and youll be good.

The Joystick slides into the lid and stays in place once you get the cork in there.

This is one of the more complex parts. They Eye print comes in 4 pieces. The eye, the base, the base back, and the gyro ring.

First we want to make holes for 4 screws. The first 2 are on the base. On the inside of the base there are 2 nubs. they initially worked as spots for the gyro ring to sit on. Now, we use them as guides for the screws.

From the outside find the spot on the other side of the wall from a nub. Get a small screw and screw it through the base to come out through the nub. One of them is behind a strap connector. On my print I used a solder to warp a semi-circle on the strap connector so i could fit a screwdriver and screw.

Once in place to where the tip of the screw is poking out a little bit, set aside and grab a servo, the eye, and some scissors.

To fit the servo into the eye you are going to want to cut off the mounting flaps on the servo. Once done, you can fit the server into the eye with the moving part aimed out the with with a larger opening. you may need ot bend and warp the print a bit to get the servo all the way in there and flat.

Once that servo is in, we want to get the eye into the gyro ring. the ring has a flatter side, make sure the eye is pointed down with the flatter side of the gyro ring. The ring sould have a small lifted area that you will use to connect a small 1 sided servo arm to. This arm should come with your servo and its generally the smallest of the attachment options. using a small screw provided with your servo, attach the arm to the servo ring. On the outer rim of the ring where it connects to the servo, there is also a hole where we will put one of the longer screws provided with the servo and screw it in till it gets to the servo. You dont want it to pull the whole eye to the edge of the servo but you want it to get to the servo so it ensures that moment from the servo will move the whole eye properly.

You can now fit the eye and gyro ring into the base. the servo in the eye should be perpendicular with the screws you put into the base. Tighten the screws so they push into the gyro ring into the round reciever sections on the ring. The final fit should be snug but not warping the ring to where the eye cant freely rotate in either direction.

The other 2 screw we need will be used to secure the 2nd servo to the base back. Once you have attached that servo, use some small screws and the springs to attach springs from the gyro ring to a long 2 armed servo arm. Sense the servo is off centered, the springs help with the triginomatry of things.

Lastly, feed the cables through the hole in the base and then place the back onto the base lining up the hole in the side. I used a soldering iron here at this point to melt the pieces together along the ridges in the print.

Sense my strap doesnt fit through the eye strap loop i did 2 straps that attach and tighten in the back using the roller buckles. For the connection to the eyepatch abse I put the strap to a thinner section of about 3 inches to feed through the strap mount and then glue to onto itself.

I pretty much did no research in a proper way to do a strap so if you know a better way, do that cause mine looks like bad honestly.

Im not good at instructions so im sorry if they feel incomplete or rushed. But thats about it. close it all up and flip the switch to test.