Ray\dial: a Warm, Ambient Lamp for Shared Spaces

Lighting sets the mood before anything else does- as soon as you step into a space, the lighting determines the way it is perceived. But in most shared spaces, you get one overhead harsh light and no say in the matter. Ray\dial changes exactly that: an ambient lamp that flexes and shifts, adapts to you- letting you shape light around you the way you'd arrange anything else that makes a space feel inhabited.

It is designed for transient spaces and leisure activities. The warmth of the light, the act of tilting and adjusting it, directing it toward your desk or your wall or just the space around you — all of it is an invitation to settle in. To make a shared space, even briefly, feel like home.

Materials:

1. Mild Steel 1.5mm and 3mm sheet
2. Transparent and black PLA filaments
3. Coloured acrylic- 50cm by 30cm
4. Neodymium N-52 magnets (3)
5. M3 socket bolts (24)
6. M3 brass heat inserts- M3 X 4mm (24)
7. LED strip (12V) 50 cm long
8. JST connectors (1 pair)
9. Strip to strip connector (1)
10. DC power adapter 12V (match to the LED strip voltage)
11. SPST On-Off switch
12. Heat shrink tubing
13. 3M tape
14. Araldite epoxy adhesive
15. Clear coat spray paint
16. Flat black spray paint

Tools:

1. CNC laser cutter
2. 3D printer
3. Soldering iron setup
4. Sandpaper- 80, 150 grits
5. Wet sandpaper- 600, 100 grits
6. 3D modelling software (if you wish to edit the design :) )
7. M3 allen key
8. Pliers

The following are the CAD files I made for the MS sheet laser cutting. There are 2 files: one for 1.5mm MS sheet pieces (5) and the middle piece, which will be cut from a 3mm MS sheet.

I used SolidWorks software to make the files- you can use the same and edit, or use the file to redesign.

Note: I have used Mild Steel for the magnets to stick onto the rail of the middle piece (the semicircular cut edge). So if you're thinking of substituting materials, keep this in mind.

Deburr the metal pieces using a swivel head deburring tool if there are flaky, sharp edges. Then use wet sandpaper to smooth the surface and get rid of small scratches. This is done to avoid cable damage and user injury.

1. Sand the pieces using the 600-grit wet sandpaper, moving in one direction.
2. The sand the pieces using 800-1000 grit wet sandpaper.

Preparing the pieces to paint- clean the metal pieces using a microfiber cloth and isopropyl alcohol.

1. Spray a layer of primer and let it dry for an hour or two.
2. Spray the flat black paint- do 2-3 coats of paint, let it dry for half an hour.
3. Spray the clear coat paint- do 2-3 coats and let it dry in a shaded space.

Attached are the files for the 3D printed joinery for securing the metal plates together to form the base. Using black PLA and a 0.4 nozzle 3D print the 4 joinery components. 3 joineries need to be printed using the file named "Joinery A" and the last joinery corresponds to the file named "Joinery B".

After printing remove the supports, brim and sand and smoothen any rough surfaces.

The 3D prints have 6 holes in each joinery- the brass heat inserts need to be placed inside the holes, sitting flush against the top of the 3D printed surface.

1. Heat the soldering iron, using a broad flat tip that fits inside the insert.
2. Place the insert into the hole and press lightly.
3. Place the soldering iron tip into the center of the insert. Do not push it. Let the heat soften the PLA, and the insert will sink under the weight of the iron.
4. Once the insert is flush against the top surface, take a flat metal object and press firmly onto the insert until it is level with the plastic.
5. Let it cool for 10 seconds.

Screw in the 3D printed joinery to the base plate G using the M3 Allen key to screw in the socket bolts.

1. Align the holes of the 3d printed joinery and the base plate.
2. Screw in the socket bolts, tighten them using the Allen key.

The LED strip is stuck on both sides of the middle piece. It passes through the small slot made in the middle piece- I have made it for wires to pass through. To avoid bending and twisting the LED strip, I attached LED strip-to-strip connectors through wires.

1. The LED strip is in 2 pieces. One strip is attached to the cable, the other is attached to the first LED using strip-to-strip connectors (refer to the above image).
2. The strip-to-strip connector passes through the middle piece slot.
3. The switch button is placed on the cable.

The base plate G and the 3D printed joineries are screwed on. Next,

Attach the side plates C's, one A plate and insert the tab of the middle piece into the slot on the A piece while doing this.

Refer to the steps of assembly in the images.

1. Print the diffusers in transparent PLA filament using the 0.4 mm nozzle.
2. Clean up the print, removing the supports and brims and sanding if necessary.
3. Place the diffuser in the base and push it in.
4. Screw in the socket bolts, which secure the diffuser to the base.
5. Do this for both the diffusers

The attached file contains the drawings of the pieces to be cut. The file is compatible with a 2.5mm thick acrylic sheet. If you are using any other thickness, edit the slots accordingly.

1. Machine settings: Power- 80 and Speed- 15
2. Focus the power before cutting.

Note: The CAD files incorporate a 0.1mm offset to account for the laser's kerf (material removed by the laser beam), ensuring the interlocking slots in the acrylic achieve a precise friction fit without cracking.

Put all the laser-cut pieces together, fitting them precisely. Be careful not to bend or crack the acrylic. Avoid putting too much pressure at once. Make sure you insert the acrylic piece perfectly perpendicular to the other and vertically, not at an angle.

Refer to the attached image to understand the sequence of assembly.

1. Clean the magnets using a damp cloth, making sure there is no dust on them.
2. Mix the hardener and epoxy resin of the Araldite adhesive in equal parts.
3. Coat the magnet's one side and the slot cut out in the acrylic with this mixture and press them together.
4. Let it dry and stick properly for at least half an hour.

Voilà! You have your own ambient lamp. Light it up and adjust it to use.

This lamp was made with the guidance of Sahil Thappa and Javed Ali.

Critiques, comments and suggestions are always welcome!

Reach out if there are any questions.