Retro Wave Repaint: MicroKORG XL Makeover

I’ve always loved the sound of my MicroKORG XL, but visually it never felt like mine. So I decided to change that. This project is all about taking a great instrument and giving it a custom look that reflects my taste. It took time, patience, and a bit of experimentation, but the result completely transformed how I feel about this synth.

1. Tamiya Fine Surface Primer
2. Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2X Ultra Cover (High Gloss - St. Tropez)
3. Mr. Color (C2 Black & C3 Red)
4. Masking Tape
5. Sand paper
6. Airbrush

The first step was carefully taking the MicroKORG XL apart to prepare it for painting. I started by removing all the external screws from the bottom panel and separating the top and bottom halves of the chassis.

Once opened, the internal layout is quite compact, with multiple circuit boards connected through ribbon cables and bundled wiring. Before disconnecting anything, I made sure to document the connections and cable routing to avoid confusion during reassembly.

I then proceeded to unplug the connectors one by one, handling them gently to prevent damage to the pins or sockets. The keybed was removed as a full unit, followed by the main control board and smaller daughterboards. Components like knobs, buttons, and the pitch/mod wheels were also detached to fully isolate the casing.

To stay organized, I grouped screws and small parts into separate bags and kept related components together. This made the process much easier to manage and will help ensure everything goes back exactly where it belongs.

At this stage, the synth was fully disassembled, leaving only the bare plastic shell ready for surface preparation and painting.

Once everything was fully disassembled, all the plastic parts went through a thorough cleaning process. Each piece was washed using warm water, mild soap, and a soft brush to get into corners and textured areas. I made sure to gently scrub without damaging any surfaces, especially around edges and detailed sections.

After that, all parts were rinsed thoroughly with clean water to remove any remaining soap. Finally, they were left to dry completely before moving on to the next stage. Any moisture left behind at this point could compromise the paint finish later on.

With a background in building plastic model kits, I knew that masking would be one of the most critical steps in this project. A clean paint job depends heavily on how precise and reliable your masking is, especially when working with multiple colors and defined edges.

For this, I used Tamiya masking tape, which is specifically designed for modeling. It has excellent adhesion without being too aggressive, allowing it to seal edges properly while still being safe to remove without lifting paint or leaving residue.

Since I’m using Rust-Oleum spray cans, I don’t have fine control over paint flow like with an airbrush. That makes masking even more important—any overspray or paint bleed can easily ruin clean lines. The quality of the tape helps prevent that by creating sharp, well-defined edges and minimizing the risk of paint seeping underneath.

I took my time applying the tape carefully, pressing down all edges firmly and making sure every area that needed protection was fully covered. This step requires patience, but it directly defines the final result.

For the main body, I chose Rust-Oleum in the “St. Tropez” color to achieve that retro, laid-back aesthetic. The tone works really well to give the synth a more unique and vintage-inspired look.

This particular paint doesn’t require a primer, so after a light sanding of the frame to improve adhesion, I went straight into applying the color. The sanding step helps create a slightly rough surface, allowing the paint to bond more effectively.

Since this is an enamel-based paint, drying time is critical. I allowed the parts to cure for a full week to ensure the finish hardened properly before handling or moving on to the next steps. Rushing this stage can easily ruin the surface, so patience here really pays off.

For the keys, I decided to take a different approach. I didn’t want to bring them back to pure white. In the past, I tried restoring them using chemical treatments, and while it worked initially, the effect only lasted a few weeks before fading.

This time, I went for a more permanent and visually interesting solution: a soft grey finish. Instead of applying a separate color, I used Tamiya grey primer as the base tone. After proper surface prep, I applied two even coats of primer and let them dry thoroughly.

Once cured, I sealed the finish with four coats of Mr. Color semi-gloss clear. This not only protected the surface but also gave the keys a smooth, subtle sheen that feels great to the touch.

An added benefit of this method is that the black keys didn’t require any work—they naturally retained their original color, creating a clean contrast with the newly finished grey keys.

The final result feels intentional, durable, and much more unique than the original look.

For the four patch keys, I wanted them to stand out with a more striking finish. I started by applying a fine primer to create a smooth and even surface, ensuring the following layers would sit perfectly.

Next, I applied a base coat of Mr. Color silver. This metallic layer is essential for achieving the final “candy” effect, as it reflects light through the transparent color layers applied on top.

To build that depth, I added five coats of Mr. Color clear red. With each additional layer, the color became richer and more intense, gradually developing that deep, glossy candy finish. It’s a process that requires patience, but the visual payoff is worth it.

As a final touch, I also refinished the screws, giving them a fresh coat of Mr. Color gloss black. It’s a small detail, but it helps tie everything together and elevates the overall look of the synth.

With all the parts finished and fully cured, it was time to bring everything back together. I carefully reassembled the synth, following the same order as the disassembly and making sure every connection and component was placed exactly where it belonged.

As everything came together, the transformation really stood out—the new colors, finishes, and details completely changed the character of the instrument.

To enhance the overall aesthetic, I replaced the original knobs with ones that have a more vintage look. This small upgrade made a big difference, tying the whole design together and reinforcing the retro feel.

I’m really happy with how it turned out. What started as a standard-looking synth now feels unique and personal. It’s like having a brand new instrument, ready for another long season of use.