Seuso Box

Seuzo is a project developed on an archaeological theme focused on artifact preservation. Its essence is to protect the artifact from rapid and significant changes in atmospheric conditions by maintaining a specified (and adjustable) temperature and humidity.

What you will need:

Components:

1. Microcontroller – ESP32
2. Printed circuit board – DPCB-46
3. Adapter – DCA (2.1×5.5-2)
4. Converter – MINI560-PRO-5V
5. Temperature and humidity sensor – DHT22 (module)
6. Fan – MF60251VX-1000U-G99
7. Humidifier – HUMI (USB)
8. Heating panel – TRU COMPONENTS TC-9957448
9. Relay (3 pcs)

Tools:

1. Soldering iron
2. Solder wire (tin)
3. “Third hand” (helping hands tool)
4. Screwdriver
5. Wire stripper
6. Side cutters (cutting pliers)
7. Cut-to-size wires

Take the microcontroller and the solderable printed circuit board, then place them on top of each other as shown in the image.

Cut four wires: two 3 cm, one 8 cm, and one 10 cm long. Solder the two shorter wires to the negative and positive outputs of the converter. Important! Always solder the wires from both sides (from below and above). Solder the 8 cm wire to the negative input and the 10 cm wire to the positive input.

On the printed circuit board, designate one edge of the horizontal side for the positive wires, and the opposite edge for the negative ones. It does not matter which side is which, but wires with the same polarity must always be soldered to the same side. The wires connected here will carry current, so we will refer to them accordingly.

Based on this, solder the input wires of the converter to the two sides of the PCB. Then solder the outputs to the microcontroller according to the circuit diagram.

Now take the adapter and cut two wires, each approximately 10 cm long. Screw the wires into the adapter’s output terminals, then solder them to the two sides of the PCB according to their polarity (or based on the circuit diagram).

Cut three wires, each about 20 cm long, and solder them to the temperature and humidity sensor. Tip: I removed the protruding pins at the end of the DHT22 and soldered the wires in their place. Solder its output to pin D18 on the microcontroller; this is the wire through which the sensor sends data to the controller.

On the right side of the PCB, designate four positive and four negative holes, then solder the DHT22 wires there. Tip: it’s helpful to leave two empty holes between the positive and negative sections, as this will make things easier later.

Take the single relay and cut three wires, each about 5 cm long, then screw each of them into the input side of the relay. Solder the other ends of the wires to their corresponding positions based on the circuit diagram.

Cut two 5 cm wires and screw them into the other side of the relay (NO and COM). Then solder their free ends to the two square pads located at the bottom of the HUMI-USB humidifier.

Solder 10 cm wires to the negative and positive terminals of the humidifier, then solder the other ends to the corresponding polarity sections on the PCB.

Following the same pattern as before, solder the fan and the heating panel wires into their designated places.

Finally, use solder to connect the power-carrying wires on the underside of the solderable printed circuit board. Then flip the PCB over and solder together all the negative wires, and separately all the positive wires.

After that, connect the positive wires to the first wire of the microcontroller (“the brain”) and the negative wires to the second wire, as shown in the diagram.

If you want, you can design additional components for the box using 3D design; for example, we used these:

Once you are finished with this as well, all that is left is to place it inside the box and, of course, upload the program to the microcontroller (“the brain”). We have uploaded our code here, but it can of course be modified freely. If you have done this too, then you are done!

This project can be improved in many ways, which we are also planning to do, so a next version will be coming soon.