Two Sided Acrylic Sign With Rechargeable LED Base

This is an edge-lit acrylic sign with two visible sides, each of which displays a laser-engraved lit image. The sign part is easily removed from the base, which is 3D printed. The base contains an LED strip and a 12V output rechargeable battery powered power supply, with a push-push switch to control the lighting.

1. 1 UPS module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DD7NRWN2
2. 145mm length of 8mm wide LED strip, 12V
3. 1 or 2 18650 lithium-ion rechargeable batteries
4. Length of double-sided tape
5. USB-C charging cable
6. heat shrink tubing (optional) to stiffen the end of the USB-C cable
7. 1 push-on/push-off switch https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Shin-Chin/R13-23B-05-BW or similar
8. hookup wire and solder
9. 2 pieces of 3mm thick clear cast acrylic sheet at least 260mm x 175mm
10. 1 piece 3mm thick opaque (preferably black) cast acrylic sheet at least 260mm x 175mm
11. 1 piece 3mm thick opaque cast acrylic sheet at least 156mm x 68mm
12. 4 3mm heat set inserts, 6mm long
13. 4 M3 x 8mm machine screws to fit inserts
14. 4 M2.5 x 11mm machine screws
15. 8 M2.5 washers
16. 4 M2.5 nuts

Copy the sign_panel.svg file to two separate files. Add images to each for engraving and save for your laser cutter. Make sure that the images and text are mirrored, since you'll be engraving the back sides of the clear acrylic panels.

Using clear acrylic, make the two engraved sign panels using your new SVG files with text and images.

Use the sign_panel.svg file by itself to cut out the black acrylic panel that will go in between the clear panels.

Use the sign_top.svg file to cut the 3mm opaque acrylic top for the base.

Using the M2.5 hardware, bolt the clear panels on either side of the black panel, making sure that the engraved sides of the clear panels are against the black panel. Be very careful to avoid scratches and dust, as they'll be very visible when lit.

The sign_base.step file is the solid model of the base. You should 3D print this using supports as necessary. You don't need much infill, but you might want to add a wall thickness or two.

Use a soldering iron or heat set tool to attach the heat set inserts in the four holes at the top of the base.

Cut the LED strip to length. Make sure you only cut at the marks. I had to bend each end up a bit to make it fit. Solder wires to the solder pads at the left (button) side of the strip as shown in the picture. 10cm will be more than enough. The wire from the + side of the strip needs to go out through the button mounting hole and have 1cm or so extra for soldering to the button.

Solder the wire from the + pad of the LED strip to one terminal on the button.

Pass a second wire through the button hole and solder its end to the other button terminal.

Solder the other end of this wire to the UPS module's + output pad.

Solder the wire from the - pad of the LED strip to the UPS module's - output pad.

Insert the 18650 batteries in the battery holder, making sure that the + terminal is going the correct way. If you're only using one battery, it should go in the bottom holder.

Test the operation of the LEDs by pressing the button. If they don't work, fix the wiring.

Attach a piece of double-sided tape to the side of the UPS module's battery holder so that it will hold the UPS module to the base when the module is inserted into the base.

Slide the module into the base, ensuring that the battery holder end nearest the USB connector is up against the base and the double-stick tape is holding everything together.

Using the M3 screws, attach the acrylic top to the base by threading them into the inserts.

Charge the UPS module using the USB-C cable. I stiffened the USB-C end of the cable with a piece of heat-shrink tubing to make it easier to insert into the jack on the UPS module.

When you want to use the sign, slide the bottom of the sign panel stack into the base and push the button to turn the LEDs on.