WLAN/WLED Smart 2D Effect Multicolor Outdoor Floodlight

Hello!

I wanted an outdoor-capable smart LED floodlight that can be controlled via WLAN, with smart home integration and preferably app control. I also wanted a 2D color effect, meaning the LEDs are individually addressable, allowing for much better animated color effects instead of all LEDs always showing the same colors.

There is nothing like this available on the market for a reasonable price, and most cheap Chinese products today are of horrible quality and not able to individually address their LEDs. I bought several samples and sent them all back including breakdowns after just some hours of operation.

It also seems to be a questionable trend that many smart control systems do not have open interfaces and require proprietary apps and internet connection to their servers elsewhere to control a lamp in a local WLAN.

So there is only one solution to this: DIY!

First of all there is a very nice solution to the entire smart home, control and app integration topic, which is the WLED Project basically supporting all I wanted. So all left to do is to build a outdoor capable and waterproof rugged housing, which must also allow heat transfer from the LEDs to outside to prevent overheating.

You can finde the WLED-Project here: https://kno.wled.ge/

The model files incl. AutoDesk Fusion file can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/1742301-wlanwled-smart-2d-effect-multicolor-outdoor-floodl

You can file the part and tool list here: https://www.printables.com/model/1742301-wlanwled-smart-2d-effect-multicolor-outdoor-floodl

Some considerations about the design:

LED Matrix Panel

You will need a 16x16 LED Matrix Panel with 256 LEDs in total, which has usually 16x16cm size.

I used the WS2815 panel from BFT lightning, which is a bit more pricy, but has 12V making power supply less demanding and it comes with backup data wire, which means a single dead LED will not cause the entire panel (more specifically the following LEDs in line) to break down.

Alternatively you can also use a cheaper WS2812B panel, which has 5V and draws ~2,4x the current making the power supply a little more demanding (and more expensive!) and a LED break down will affect more than one LED. Please also keep in mind that the cable connectors may have different locations, which means you must modify the position of the cable through holes the frame! I added 3MF files as well to make modifications easier, if necessary.

Heat sink

I used a quite small heat sink not sure if it would be sufficient. I made a long term test run with white color 100% brightness (max. power) and after a while the temperature stabilized at ~80°C at the LEDs and 60°C in the electronic compartment. The maximum rating WS2815 LED temperature is 85°C, which is a bit marginal, but should still be ok. You can use a bigger heat sink, if you like, but therefore you have to change the big through hole in the frame, of course.

You can use heat conductive glue to fix the heat sink. I preferred to additionally screw it on the aluminium cooling plate, but this requires M3 countersunk head screws, a 2,5mm drill, a thread tap and a countersink, which may be a bit demanding for some toolboxes. With screws you can use thermal paste instead of thermal glue, which conducts heat a bit better, I guess.

Controller

For those familiar with adressable WS2812/15 LEDs and electronics: It is pretty easy! You need an ESP32, 12V -> 5V voltage regular and a level shifter such as SN74AHCT125. Everything you need to know is very well explained in the WLED project linked above. There is a lot of space in the electronic compartment for own designs or additional stuff!

For those who have no idea what I'm talking about: https://wled.shop/produkt/wladis-wled-controller-v40-esp32/

This is the controller I used. It work without additional electronic knowledge and it also fit with the PCB holders in my design. Please don't forget to order the USB programmer, if you don't own one yet!

Power supply

WS2815 RGB LED Matrix Panel 16x16 has 12V and draws 3,4A/40W @ RGB white maximum brightness. Be sure to pick a sufficient power supply!

The alternative WS2812B panel with 5V draws 10.51 A/52.57 W (!), so you need a good power supply for this. Be sure you are using 4 mm2 (AWG 11) cables.

The WLED controller is good for both panel types.

Cable connectors (see picture)

There are several IP65 or somewhat cheap waterproof low-voltage connectors similar to the ones on the picture below. There does not seem to be any standard, so you should buy pairs from one manufacturer to be sure they match. They should be good even for outdoor application.

1. Print the 3D parts. I recommend using PETG instead of PLA, because it is a bit more weatherproof, has a better mechanical strenght and can bear higher temperatures (see heat sink). I used 0.2mm layer and a 0,4mm nozzle, no need for high details here.I surpressed all autogenerated supports but for the slot in the Frame and Electronic compartment and the holes in the Electronic compartment, which makes the roundness a bit better.
2. Inset the short M4 threaded insert into the frame. If you soldering iron tip is too sharp you may pierce throught the insert into the plastic. You can avoid this by simply using one of the M3 threads as "adapter" as shown in the 2nd picture. The M3 threaded insert are melted into the small PCB holder.
3. Peel you the support from the holes for the PCB holder holes and the slot. The slot must be really clean to avoid a gap between frame and electronic compartment later!
4. Next we glue the PCB holders and the key. For the key use very few glue so than nothing squeezes out at the side (or remove any excess glue afterwards), otherwise it will disturb to glue on the electronic compartment later on. It should look like this afterwards
5. Next we do the electronic compartment. Same procedure like above. Insert the inlets and use one of the M4 inlets as "adapter" for the M6, if you solder iron is too sharp, like mine.
6. Take apart the cable glant, remove the rubber sealing and glue the rest it into the hole. The sealing does not work well and the thread is a bit to short as these are indented for smaller wall diameter. Its better and watertighter, when glued in.

1. Turn around the panel. Identify the data input by the arrow (lower conncetor on the picture). We must extand these cables a bit! Unsolder the cables and add your longer cable pieces. You can connect connect the "data input" and "backup data input" to one common cable. Last vut the connector at the output!
2. Take the aluminium plate. It will come cut by a sheet metal shears, which makes the dimensions not very precise. Use the file to trimm it and round the corners, so that it fits snug into the frame. Put the plate into the frame and mark your cable through hole positions. I also uploaded a DXF for this, so you can print a template. Drill holes and use the file (or a multitool, if you have) to make nice holes for you cables.
3. Put your LED matrix on the other side and check the cable hole positions. The plate is 170x170mm and the LED panel 160x160mm, so you should have 5mm gap around. Double check the cable through hole position carefully to avoid a short circuit of you cables at the aluminium plate later.
4. Put the aluminium plate into the frame and the heat sink into the big through hole to check position.
5. When you want to use glue you can use the frame a guide for the right position and glue the heat sink to the plate now. When you want to fix it with screws, what I'd recommend, drill hole into the heat sink and cut a thread into it. Use the frame as guide and drill throught the heat sink into the aluminium plate. Don't ruin your threads doing so! :-) Use the countersink from the other side, so that the M3 countersunk screws will be completely sunken in the plate. Apply the thermal glue or paste to the heat sink and crew it to the plate.
6. Alternatively glue your LED panel to the aluminium plate with the thermal glue.
7. The overall result should look something like one the pictures :-)

1. Use the 2-component glue to the LED panel into the frame. Please make sure the LED panel is pressed down into the frame properly. If the LEDs stand out above the frame laster, the Macrolon plate won't fit!
2. I also made a seam on the other side to be very sure everything is sealed properly, see pictures

1. Install the controller as shown. The cable from the LED panel go left side as shown. Data line to "DAT", "CLK" unused.
2. You may want to seal the cable connections with the 2K glue aswell to be sure the connections stay fixed even in case of vibrations/shocks etc.

WLED can even be installed via browser, it can't get any easier! :-) Plug on the USB Programmer and connect to your PC. Please remember, that not all USB-C cables work! They have to be able to transmit data and must not be the "just good for loading a phone cheap type". When connecting you have to the Windows "USB connected" sound. If not, search another cable!

Go to: https://install.wled.me/

Hit "install" and select "USB Serial", when prompted and watch the show. Note: Does not seem to work in Firefox! Use Edge instead!

Download the WLED App:

Android: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ca.cgagnier.wlednativeandroid

IOs: https://apps.apple.com/de/app/wled-official-app/id6446207239

A new Wifi network "WLED-AP" appears. Connect to it! Password is "wled1234".

Open the WLED App and scan for Wifi Network. Pick your home Wifi, type in your password and selet "save & connect". The WLED-AP disappears and you phone will most likely connect back to your Home Wifi automatically. Open the WLED app and select your new device. The LEDs won't work for now, because you are still drawing power via USB, which is by far to weak for the LEDs. Let's proceed with the next step!

Whenever for some reason the Floodlight is not able to connect to your Wifi at boot-up, it will automatically switch back to the "WLED-AP" access point (or however you want to name it in the settings), so its always possible to access your lamp. OTA (over the air) updates via Wifi and App are also possible any time.

To test the LEDs we must connect the power supply and can also finish the electronic compartment. I used some of these IP65 waterproof low-voltage connectors described above.

1. First of all glue the electronic compartment to the frame. Don't use too much glue or it will squeeze out at the sides. Triple check (!!!) polarity and connect the power supply.
2. The WLED controller will start with its standard LED configuration and look like on the 2nd picture
3. Go to "2D Configuraton" and select the following:
4. Strip or panel: 2D Matrix
5. Number of panels: 1
6. 1st LED: Top Right
7. Orientation: Vertical
8. Serpentine: Yes
9. Dimensions (WxH): 16x16
10. Offset X: 0 Y: 0
11. Don'f forget so "Save"! :-)
12. It will give you a graphical feedback how your panel is oganized, which should look like on the 3rd picture
13. Go to "LED & Hardware" and uncheck the automatic brightness limiter, see picture! Check if the number of LEDs is 256. This does not not seem to synchronize sometimes. Anyhow we want full power! :-)

Fix the Stands. Screw - Spring washer - Washer - Stand - Washer. I added a bit of glue in the thread to fix it permanently and tight the screws enough to have enough friction in the stand.

Add some 2K glue on the frame and fix the macrolon cover plate with the crews. Tight carefully and not too tight to avoid to high tension in the glass, which can cause cracks over time.

Time to play around! Enjoy!

Best regards!